A most Copious and Exact Compendium of Sope - Medieval Soap Recipes.

By Elska á Fjárfella (Susan Verberg), 2017

From the Dominion of Myrkfaelinn in Aethelmearc.

Copyright © 2017, by Susan Verberg (Elska á Fjárfelli) For educational purposes only.

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Title Page Image:

Blockprint by Author of this paper, inspired by the frontispiece of the washerwoman

La Philippa da Calcara, 16th C, Syndics of Cambridge University Library.

Please only share for educational purposes with complete credentials, including original manuscripts.

If you have a recipe that is not included, please contact me at [email protected]!


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Contents

Introduction ………………………………………………………………………… 7

More on Gillyflower…………………………………….………………………… 8

More on Alumen faecis………………………………………….……………..… 11 Soap Formulas………………………………………………………………………. 12

Nabulsi Soap (excerpt from an article in “This Week in Palestine”), 10th C How soap is made from olive oil or tallow, 12th C

Making French soap, 12th C ffor to make whyt sope, 13th C Arabic Description of Soap Making, 13th C On Making Soap, ca. 1300

Capitellum is made thus, ca. 1300 Jewish or French or sharp soap is made thus, ca. 1300 (incomplete) formula for making soap, 13-14th C To make musk soap, 15th CE [?] To make Spanish soap, 16th C To harden white soap, & bright-shining, lasting, & made very strong, 1555 To make hard soap without fire, 1555 To make hard soap with fire, 1555 Liquide and softe Sope of Naples, 1558 A very exquisyte sope, made of diuers thinges, 1558 Sope of Naples, 1558 To make black Sope for clothes, 1560 The signes that Sope giueth in seething, 1560 To make white soap without fire, 1561 To increase soap, 1561 To make soft soap, 1561 To make soap, 1561 To make Muske Sope, 1573 Untitled, 1584 To make good sope, 1597

Soap Recipes, Apothecary ……………………………………………………… 25 Definition: Sapo, 13th C Definition: Sapo, 1580 For a good bone-salve against headache, 10th C Untitled, annoynt any Men therwith, 1354 A Precious and a proued medicine for the Stone, 1354 Untitled, healeth perfectly a Fel|lon, Uncome, 1354


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Untitled, any Tetter or Ringwoorme, 1354 Untitled, THere is nothing better to drawe forth Thornes, 1354 Or take this salve, 16th C Item another of the same, 16th C Untitled, unslaked lime and soap, 16th C To make well scented soap against scabies, 1513 Here foloweth diuers good me|dycynes for the morphewe, 1526 Here foloweth diuers good me|dycynes for the morphewe, 1526 For the gowte, or swellynge of ioyntes and knobbes, 1547 For the swellynge in a mans knee or legge that aketh, 1547 For to do away a wenne, 1547 For the blacke Iaundes, 1547 Untitled, And yf ye be disposed to brake thee skinne, 1550 A goodly swete sope for scabbes and ytche, 1550 Untitled, taketh away the goute and al other grefes, 1553 Untitled, TO heale the burning of fire, 1553 To make an instrument called Cauterium wher|with sores are burned, 1560 Against apostumes and swelling at the roote of the nailes, 1562 Agaynst all spots, pimples, pushes, or vlcers in the face, 1562 Medecines of the kyndes that burne the skynne or fleshe, 1562 An excellent preseruatiue against the Pestilence and Dropsey, 1569 To remedie moyst sores or scabbes in childrens heads, 1569 To remedie the disease Panaritio, 1569 Against knobbes or wheales of the French disease, 1569 A medicine for burnyng and skaldyng, 1579 For burnyng or skaldyng, 1579 For the stone, or stoppyng of the water, 1579 To prouoke Vrine, 1579 A medicine for the yellowe Iaunders, 1579 A true medicine for the piles, 1579 For to doe away a wen, 1580 For the blacke Iaundes, 1580 A meruailous Sope that helpeth those which cannot spyt, 1588 An excellent sope for Scabbes and Itche, 1588 Against the fellon and Vncomes, 1588 An other for the same, 1596 Verie good medicine to cause one to pisse that cannot, 1596 A medicine for a bruse, 1608

Veterinarian ………………………………………………………………… 33 To heale and cure Horses of the Skabbe, 1560 Untitled, to anoynt skabbed Sheepe, horse. &c, 1579 Untitled, IF your Horsse be Lousie about the eares, 1588 Untitled, IF he be scabbye, 1588

Other Uses ……………………………………………………………………. 35 Another preparation with which gall ink is removed from parchment, ca. 1025


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To take out a deuise made in a mould, with blacke Sope, 1560 To die a crimson colour, 1588 To make a salve, that kills the wall lice which are in a bed, 1513 To kill the lice and the nits, 1513

Toiletry ……………………………………………………………………… 37 Soap for the face, 16th C Soap for the hands, 16th C Soap for the hands, 16th C Soap for the head, 16th C Mudas for the hands, 16th C Musk-scented soap, 16th C Bran for the hands, 16th C Lye for the head, 16th C Lye to turn hair blond, 16th C Mudas for the hands, 16th C To make clean hair, 1513 To make soap roseat for containers, 1513 To make gillyflower soap, 1513 Soap for barbers for little cost, 1513 How to make an aromatic soap which makes the hands white and soft, 1552 To make soap balls scented, & excellent, 1555 To make gentle soap tablets scented as much as possible, 1555 To give musk to soap, 1555 To give other scent to soap as previously mentioned, 1555 Soap to put in the ointment box, or else in jars, 1555 Barber soap balls of Florence, 1555 Musk soap, 1555 Another soap with civet, 1555 Soap with benzoin, 1555 Soap with roses, 1555 Soap in another good way, or beautiful, 1555 Ingredients other than soap, 1555 Ingredients in another way, 1555 Fine soap, 1555 Vvhite musked Sope, 1558 Another kinde of odoriferous white Sope, 1558 Damaske parfume, 1558 To make Damaskine sope musked, 1558 To make the sayde Sope musked, 1558 A very exquisyte sope, made of diuers thinges, 1558 Sope with Cyuet, 1558 Sope with diuers sweete and excellent oyles, 1558 Sope rosat, 1558 VVhite Sope of a good sauour and odour, 1558 Perfect sope, 1558


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VVhole and massy blacke sope, 1558 “A Lye to dye the hair”, 1558 I shall teach you, “Another.”, 1558 To make the handes white, 1560. To make also hore heares blacke, 1560 To make white heare in the shadowe: without the sunne, 1560 A sofee dowe or paste as it were Pomatum, to washe the handes, 1560 Balles of Sope for Barbers of diuers sortes and sauours, 1560 A delicate washing ball, 1608 To make washing balls, 1615

Laundry ……………………………………………………………………….. 49 To get dirt out of clothing, 15th century How one shall wash an undergown, 15th century Recipe to remove spots, 16th century To make soap, that, purifies all sorts of stains, whatever they might be, 1513 To do a stain on scarlate or ~ velvet, 1513 To make a water for removing spots from white cloth, 1532 To remove various stains and spots from crimson velvet, 1532 Rounde apples or balles to take ou[...] spottes of oyle [...] grease, 1558 Sope to get out all spottes of cloth, 1558 Another like secret, 1558. Another like, 1558 Another meane, 1558 Another meanes for spottes, of fatte or Oile, 1558 To take spottes out of Skarlate or Veluet, without burting the colour, 1558 To take spottes out of white silke or Veluet in griene or Crimsen Veluet, 1558 To take out a spot of inke or wine of a wollen or linen clothe, 1558 To make soap balls in order to remove stains, 1561 A water to take spots out of whyte clothe, 1562 To take all spots out of crymsen Veluet, 1562 To make a sope that taketh out all spottes, 1562 To take spots out of Scarlate or Veluet of colours, 1562 For sponginge or skouring of greace, or of filthie spottes or soyle, 1584. For to skowre & supple Buffe-leather, Shamois le|ther, and such, 1584. For to taw and make furres, supple and soft, 1584 To wash a Scarlet which is greasie, 1588 To make a sope to take foorth greace, 1588 To make a sope to take out spottes of oyle and of greace, 1588 A good way to wash a shirt, and saue the Gold or silke thereon, 1588 Another way good to helpe spottes or staynes, 1588

Materia Medica & Profumatoria …………………………………………….. 56

Bibliography ………………………………………………………………………… 59


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Introduction

Collected in this Compendium are diverse formulas on how to make soap, and recipes on how to use soap spanning from the middle ages to the rennaissance. The formulas and recipes are ordered by date of publishing, to give an idea of the historical context of the information available at the time, and ordered by type and use. Formulas and recipes from the early middle ages seem to be a lot more concice than formulas and recipes from the rennaissance, which can be rather elaborate and span many pages. Technical information was initially Guild protected and would be written down sparingly, likely by a scribe for the master for his workshop, and not meant to be shared with the uninitiated. It was not until the 16th century, when the average person could read and with the invention of the printing press a mass market was created for how-to books, and a great number of recipe books, how-to manuals and translations of Latin manuscripts that had previously been only accessible to the elite hit the market.

This collection features selected formulas and recipes accumulated by digging through numerous manuscripts, made possible by the recent influx of digitalizing historic manuscripts and making those available online. I posted everything I could find on formulas and Toiletry soaps, for the Laundry chapter I did not include obvious recipe duplications, and for the Apothecary chapter I only chose those recipes where soap is a main ingredient (or which were otherwise interesting, while using soap in some shape or form). I found many more medicinal recipes (both human and veterinarian) featuring soap than any other category, some were even made for ingestion! For the culture of that time, the handful of Toiletry recipes available were enough, as for most people quality soap was a luxury not to be waisted on the body anyway. People put their faith in changing underlinens, rather than taking baths, to keep clean. The next step of recreating any of these recipes culminated into the Materia Medica &

Profumatoria Glossary: one has to know exactly what an ingredient is to know why it is used when, and whether it is dangerous. Quite a number of ingredients, including botanicals, are now known to be skin irritants, poisonous or even carcinogenic: dyeing hair black with lead works great short term, with lead poisoning looming just around the corner. And sometimes an ingredient requires quite a bit of detective work to figure out what was meant. When re-creating any of these recipes keep in mind that recipes can be incomplete, sometimes on purpose, and that not everything used then should have been used at all. Always verify what you are working with, buy high quality food grade ingredients and when wild harvesting, check with the Department of Wildlife – Flora etc. for correct determination and toxicological information. The formulas and recipes are reproduced as found. The ones in modern English are most ofted translated from a foreign language. A small selection of Middle English translations will be available in the Compleat Anachronist #174 To Make Black Sope; for this Compendium I chose not to translate, as proper translation not only requires extensive dictionaries, but in the case of recipes, often also practical trial and error. And the latter is up to you – the experimental archaeologist! If you know of a formula or recipe that is not in here, please share!


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More on Gillyflower Gillyflower as an ingredient makes an appearance in several non-English language soap recipes, including the Italian Notandissimi and the Dutch Dat Batement van Recepten. When looked up in the Florio 1611 medieval Italian to medieval English dictionary the translation given is both the spice cloves (Syzygium aromaticum) and the herb gillyflower, also called carnation (Dianthus caryphyllus), and leaves the matter up for interpretation. No matter where I looked I could not find a conclusive period source for either interpretation, including the 1771 Encyclopedia Brittanica where an alternate name for carnation is given as clove pink, indicating some sort of connection between clove and carnation. But while it mentions gillyflower can be any of several flowering plants, the spice clove is not listed among them. If they truly are two different plant specices, then how can gilliflower mean both in medieval texts? An alternate name of gillyflower given by the collection of old brewing recipes A Sip through Time by Cindy Renfrow is clove gillyflower of the family Caryophilli. Maybe through confusing nomenclature it had become a case of mistaken identity? The Dutch Books of Secrets soap recipes refer to gillyflower as groffelsnavel, which the Medieval Dutch internet translator Historic Dictionaries

on the Internet translates to gillyflower. At first glance, groffelsnavel, garofano, girofre and a number of other alternates all lead back to gillyflower. But, the medieval dutch translator had a last say: “The word was also used for the clove (Caryophyllus aromaticus) -1892”. In our modern times the Latin name for cloves is Syzygium aromaticum, but in history the Latin name for cloves was Caryophyllus aromaticus - very similar to the Latin for gillyflower which is Dianthus

caryphyllus, and indicates both are part of the family Caryophilli. In history cloves and carnations were classified as belonging to the same family, and were likely assumed to have similar properties, and were used interchangeably. It is up to context and personal interpretation to decide whether the gillyflower called for is the spice or the herb. Example recipes:

For Clarre. Take cloues and gilofre quibible, and mac? canll' gygner and spiguale off an in

poudre and temper hem with good wyne and the iij. parte as much of fyn honi that is clarified

and streine hem thorough a cloth and doo it into a clene vessel, and it may be made wyth ale

&c?.

For Clare. Take cloves and gillyflower quibible [could be qui belle, or very beautiful], and mac? canll' [much candied?] ginger and spiguale off [spigot, or drain off of the syrup] and in powder,


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and mix them with good wine and the iij. part as much of fine honey that is clarified and strain them through a cloth and do it in a clean vessel, and it may be made with ale, etc.

From The Customs of London: Otherwise Called Arnold's Chronicle, 1503 by Richard Arnold; Francis Douce, London 1811; © Translation by Susan Verberg, 2016 As in this recipe cloves are listed separately by name, and gillyflower is likely described as beautiful, it is likely Dianthus caryphyllus is meant here.

133. Om seepe girofflat te maken.

Neemt een pont seepen, set die te weeken in rooswater drie dagen in de sonne; ende als ghi v

seepe maken wilt, neemt een vnce ende een half groffelsnagelen wel gestooten, ende die helft

van die selue nagelen sult ghi in v seepe doen, ende dat seer wel mengelende. Met dander

helft doet dat hierna volcht. Neemt een cleyn potken met rooswater, ende doeghet ouer 't vier

sieden, ende alst beginnen sal te sieden, doeter die reste van dat groffelsnagelpoeder inne,

ende neemt den pot van dat vier, ende decten seer wel tot dat die bobbelen ghecesseert zijn,

ende dattet water law geworden si, dan roeret met een houtken, ende also roerende, mengelet

met v seepe. Ende is 't dat ghijer een luttel beniuyn toe doen wilt, ghi moeget doen, ooc sult

ghi v seepe in een busse doen, ende si sal goede ruecke aennemen.

133. To make gillyflower soap. Take a pound of soap, put it to soak in rosewater three days in the sun, and if you want to make soap, take an ounce and a half gillyflowers well crushed, and half of these same nagelen should you put into the soap, and mix very well. With the other half you do as follows. Take a clean pot with rosewater, and cook it over the fire, and when it starts to boil, add the rest of the gillyflower powder, and take the pot off the fire, and cover it well until the bubbles seized, and that the water is luke warm, then stir with wood, and also stir, mixing with the soap. And if you would like add a little benzoin, which you should do, also you should put the soap in a container, and it shall take on a good scent.

From Dat batement van recepten. Een secreetboek uit de zestiende eeuw

(ed. Willy L. Braekman). © Translation by Susan Verberg, 2016.

In this case the giroflatt (alternate of girofle) is also mentioned as nagelen, an adverb used in modern Dutch for kruidnagelen ("herb-nails"). Kruidnagelen specifically means the spice cloves and as it is described as a powder, I would be confident to say here giroflatt means the spice cloves. To make clove gillyflower wine.

Take six gallons and a half of spring water, and twlve pounds of sugar, and when it boils

skim it, putting in the white of eight eggs, and a pint of cold water, to make the scum rise: let

it boil for an hour and a half, skimming it well; then pour it into an earthen vessel, with three

spoonfulls of baum; then put in a bushel of clove-gillyflower clip'd and beat, stir them well

together, and the next day pit six ounces of syrup of citron into it, the third day put in three

lemons sliced, peel and all, the fourth day tun it up, stop it close for ten days, then bottle it,

and put a piece of sugar in each bottle.

From The Housekeeper's Pocket Book by Sarah Harrison, 1739; as reprinted in A Sip Through

Time by Cindy Renfrow, p.154.


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In this instance it is clear from context as a weedy herb is used, it is not describing the dry spice cloves, but the fresh state of carnations. My conclusion: from the handful of brewing recipes I found using gillyflowers, most seem to indicate using carnation, either as a fresh or dried herb. Most of the perfumed cosmetics seem to use cloves, as a powdered or crushed ingredient. It seems to make sense that if powdered or crushed gillyflower is called for it is likely to mean cloves, and if fresh or dried gillyflower is called for it is likely to mean carnation. For your interest, the translated hit on Historische Woordenboeken op Internet (Historic Dictionaries on Internet). http://gtb.inl.nl/?owner=MNW This derivation is the same word as French Girofle, Spanish. girofle, -fre, Venetian Garofolo, Italian garofano etc. (see KÖRTING, Latin-Roman. WTB. N °. 1699), originated from the Greek καρυ � φυλλον. An older form beside the more common genoffel, jenoffel, karnoffel. Regional designation in Belgium Brabant for Caryophyllus Dianthus L., the carnation, French œillet girofle (in Belgian Limburg also groffiaat), But used elsewhere in Southern Netherlands (besides groffelier) for the violier (Cheirianthus, girofléc fr.).; See SCHUERM. [1865-1870] and DE BO [1892]. The word was also (and equally so in the Romance languages) applied to the clove (Caryophyllus aromaticus); see more at GENOFFEL and similar GROFFELSNAGEL. http://gtb.inl.nl/iWDB/search?actie=article&wdb=WNT&id=M022121.re.2&lemma=groffelsnagel

A sidenote: the 8th C manuscript The Capitulare de Villis: Carolingian Polyptyques; which describes, in an idealised form, the management of royal estates:

45. That every steward shall have in his district good workmen — that is, blacksmiths, gold- and

silver-smiths, shoemakers, turners, carpenters, shield-makers, fishermen, falconers, soap-makers,

brewers, bakers, net-makers, and all the other workmen too numerous to mention.

59. Every steward shall, when he is on service, give three pounds of wax and eight sextaria of soap

each day; in addition, he shall be sure to give six pounds of wax on St Andrew's Day, wherever we

may be with our people, and a similar amount in mid-Lent.


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More on Alumen faecis. Alumen faecis was in period known as alum feces, alumen fecis, alumen faeces, alom de fece, lume

di fecca, lume de fezza - alumen faecis is an often mentioned medieval chemical ingredient which, surprisingly, has surprisingly nothing to do with alum. The chemical substance alum was well known, and had multiple uses in the Middle Ages. It was one of the commercial products, like wheat and timber, which shaped the patterns of east to west shipping in the medieval Mediterranean. Alum is a double sulfate of aluminum and potassium, or of aluminum and ammonium, or mixtures of the two. Raw alum was mined as a mineral (alunite) which had to be treated by calcining, before it could be used industrially. However, it was often confused with other substances. “Feather alum” (alumen plumeum) probably was asbestos or talc. Scale alum (lume

scagiola) was gypsum or calcium sulfate. Alum of lees (alumen faecis) was potassium carbonate and made by burning the sediments of wine, called lees. Isidore of Seville, in his Etymologies, explained that alum (alumen) is so called as it gives lightness (lumen) to the dyeing tints. During the fermentation of grape juice harmless crystalline deposits separate in wine as crude tartar, formula K2C4H4O6 or potassium tartrate and dipotassium tartrate, and are deposited in wine casks. These deposits consist mostly of tartar, the potassium salt of tartartic acid, (wiki2) with small amounts of cream of tartar and of pulp debris, dead yeast, and tannins; impurities which contaminate the potassium tartrate. Tartrates separate from new wines because they are less soluble in alcohol than in non-alcoholic grape juice. Approximately half of the tartrate soluble in grape juice is insoluble in wine, depending on grape variety and region of growth. Tartrates from red wine usually take on some red pigment; in white wines the sediment can look alarmingly like shards of glass.

The word tartar comes to English via Medieval Latin from the Medieval Greek tartaron. This crude form of tartar, also known as winestone, argol and beeswing, is collected and purified to produce the white, odorless acidic powder known as cream of tartar, with formula KC₄H₅O₆ or potassium bitartrate. As a food additive, tartar shares the E number E336 with cream of tartar, which does not help the confusion between dipotassium tartrate (tartar) and potassium bitartrate (cream of tartar). Potassium carbonate can be made by igniting tartar producing pearl ash. This salt (alkali) of tartar was deemed stronger than almost any that is obtained from other matters. Potash could also be purified by baking it in a kiln or oven until all the carbon impurities are burned off, which would also resulting in pearl ash (sometimes called fly ash, as it easily blows away). High quality potassium carbonate was used in glass making, soap making, fiber cleaning & dyeing and as a medicinal ingredient. Tartrates were used in fiber cleaning & dyeing and as a medicinal ingredient. The word alumen faecis occurs in many books of secrets on chemical technology written in the sixteenth century and is described as the burnt remains of tartar, indicating potassium carbonate. An exact translation of this word would mean the dregs or refuse of alum. Cesalpino, the well known authority of the sixteenth century in his De Metallicis, Rome, 1596, says, “Alumen faecis, quae fex

vini est combusta” or "Alumen faecis is the dregs of wine that is burned." Gargiolli in L’Arte Della

Seta in Florence, 1868, says of allume di feccia that “Cotesto allume non e altro che cenera cavata

dale vinacce bruciate” – “This alum is nothing other that the ashes derived from burnt wine lees.”


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Soap Formulas This chapter lists recipes for making medieval soap from scratch, which will often start with making the lye. Most of these formulas create soft soap, or black soap. I located only two mentions for hard or so called white soap, one in an article on barilla soaps which are still made today using century old techniques in Palestinia, and one 13th C mention in the Arabic Inventions from the Various

Industrial Arts (although this does not specify the kind of lye to use). The only northern European hard soap mention is an end note to add table salt to a soft soap to salt it out and thereby make a hard, or at least harder, soap. Hard soap is supposed to be an Arabic invention that then traveled to Europe by way of medieval Muslim Spain, and quickly became a staple export product of the Mediterranian. As that area had ample access to both olive oil and barilla lye, it makes sense the knowledge of making hard soap, if it was shared at all, would be found in roman language manuscripts like the as yet mostly untranslated Notandissimi and Isabella Cortese. Historic Nabulsi Soap, 10

th CE.

From This week in Palestine; Natural… Traditional… Chunky! by Rawan Shakaa, 2007. […] The Nabulsi soap industry goes back hundreds of years to approximately the tenth century. […] During the British mandate, the British government made an analysis of the soap blending at the London Institute in the year 1934. The result of the analysis showed that the soap consisted only of natural materials. No harmful chemical materials were to be found. The soap-factory owners even brag about this fact and wonder how anyone could stand the heavy smell and eyesore of leftover animal fat. The secret of this soap is all in its mixture. For this reason, the owners of the soap factories in Nablus do not allow visitors to look too closely at the manufacturing process. The barilla solution (qelw) and lime (sheed) form a soda solution. When this soda solution is cooked with olive oil, it creates the soap. This is just the simple formula for Nabulsi soap, yet the making of it is very detailed. The barilla ashes are put into a stone urn and pounded into a fine powder with a wooden pestle. The lime is spread in a shallow pit and soaked in water until it coagulates and dries. It is then rolled and crushed into a fine powder. These two powder mixtures are then combined and placed into a row of three to six fermentation pits, each three feet long, two feet wide, and eight inches deep. Hot water from the bottom of a copper vat is drawn through a spigot and directed to fermentation vats that contain the combined barilla and lime mixtures. The hot water then absorbs the chemical content mixture and seeps into identical but deeper pits under the fermentation pits. Slowly, this chemical composition of water becomes concentrated to a point when it is added back into the copper vat so that the oil absorbs the chemicals. This cycle is repeated on average 40 times, while the hot liquid soap in the copper vat is continuously stirred with a long oar-like piece of wood, known in Arabic as the dukshab. The art of making Nabulsi soap depends on controlling the soda contents and coagulation process. If the soap is removed from the vat too early, it will not dry well. And if it is overcooked, it will then be too hard to cut. The only way to detect whether the soap has been perfectly cooked is by its smell when a round, two-foot-long wooden pole is dipped into the vat. The cooking process to produce one batch takes eight days. When the soap is cooked just right,


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labourers carry it in wooden barrels and then pour it into a large frame made of one-inch wooden planks laid out on the large floor. After the soap is firm enough, its surface is smoothed by shaving off the top layer with a scraper. Strings dusted with powder are then stretched across at regular intervals and plucked to form lines on top of the soap. The soap is then cut into pieces along these lines with a sharp metal blade. Each piece of soap is stamped with a metal seal that is attached to a wooden hammer. […] Next, the pieces of soap are carefully stacked in tall conical, hollow structures from floor to ceiling, leaving spaces between each piece of soap and another so that each continues to properly dry. The drying itself could take between three and twelve months. […] (Shakaa)

From Mappae Clavicula; A Little Key to the World of Medieval Techniques, 12th CE:

280. How soap is made from olive oil or tallow

Spread well burnt ashes from good logs over woven wickerwork made of withies, or on a thin-meshed strong sieve, and gently pour hot water on them so that it goes through drop by drop. Collect the lye in a clean pot underneath and strain it two or three times through the same ashes, so that the lye becomes strong and colored. This is the first lye of the soapmaker. After it has clarified well let it cook, and when it has boiled for a long time and has begun to thicken, add enough oil and stir very well. Now, if you want to make the lye with lime, put a little good lime in it, but if you want it to be without lime, let the above-mentioned lye boil by itself until it is cooked down and reduced to thickness. Afterwards, allow to cool in a suitable place whatever has remained there of the lye or the watery stuff. This clarification is called the second lye of the soapmaker. Afterwards, work [the soap] with a little spade for 2, 3 or 4 days, so that it coagulates well and is de-watered, and lay it aside for use. If you want to make [your soap] out of tallow the process will be the same, though instead of oil put in well-beaten beef tallow and add a little wheat flour according to your judgment, and let them cook to thickness, as was said above. (Smith & Hawthorne) ⁂ Mappae Clavicula, 12th CE 288-D. (Making French soap)

Agitate with cold water two parts of oak ashes with a third of oak [sic] lime. Afterwards when they are well stuck together, put the whole in a basket, strongly pressed down to make on top a place for the water so that it does not run away. In this you will put cold water two or three times according to the amount consumed by the underlying ashes and the lime. Not quickly but on the following day, the water will drip down onto leaves of laurel or the like placed underneath so that the later it may flow off into another pot, and this is the capitellum. Now, if you want to make soap, put in a second water following the first, and when that has run down, put in also a third, and it will be good until it becomes white. Afterwards, melt some tallow, strain it, and when it is strained and cleaned on top if necessary, boil it with the last water. When it becomes thick, put in some of the second water and also some of the first. Or else if you soak ground poplar berries for a day [in the mixed lye and tallow] and afterwards squeeze and discard them, the soap will be reddish and better. This is French soap and spaterenta, i.e., sharp. (Smith & Hawthorne) ⁂ Mappae Clavicula, 12th CE


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From the Tractatus de Magnetate et Operationibus eius; a letter by Petrus Peregrinus, 13th CE:

//ffor to make whyt sope.

//Tak .1. busschel of clene bene asches mad of bene straw and put þer to half a busschel of quyk lym and put þese in a vessell of tre as it were a kowle and loke þat þe vessell have an hole in þe botme for to put þer in a staff and so make þerof lye with hoot water and euer mor kast in hote water til it haue na mor sauer of assches as þu may taste be þy tonge þan loke how many galouns þu hast of lye and tak so many pounde of clene schepis talgh. Thanne sethe þy lye til be half wastid a wey and kast þerin .1. vncia or a lytil more of alum. and þanne kast in þy talgh & medle him wel with þy lye til it be thikke anow and þanne kast it owt into formes. But in þe kastynge out into þy formes put vndir neþe and above smal bene flour but not to moch Also if þu se þat it be not þikke anow. kast in þer to bene flour þat be whyte and clene and þat schal make it þikke anow. and so kast it in to formes. And drey it vp in a wyndy hows and it schall be good. ⁂ Tractatus, 13th CE

From Al-mukhtara` fi funun min al- suna` (Inventions from the Various Industrial Arts) by King al-Muzaffar Yusuf ibn Ùmar ibn Àli ibn Rasul, 13th CE:

Description of Soap Making

Take two thirds from alkali (al-qily) and one third of un-slaked lime. Break the lime into small pieces the size of chestnuts. Take a large vessel of pottery and cut an outlet at its bottom. And seal this outlet tightly with a rag. Take bricks and break them into small pieces, not quite small, and pack them inside the middle of the vessel. Place on the broken bricks a piece of khsaf. Throw on the khasafa the alkali and the un-slaked lime. And pour on them an amount of water equal to four or five times the submersion volume. The vessel should be placed on a high position, and we place under the outlet another empty vessel so that the liquid will flow into it. If there is no high place you will dig a cavity in the ground at a depth equal to that of the empty vessel, and it is lowered down the cavity so that it is below the outlet. Leave it for one day and one night then open the outlet on the second day so that the filtered water of alkali and lime will pour into it. When all the liquid is emptied, return again and pour it above the alkali and lime and leave it for one day and one night. Open the outlet the next morning and empty the whole clear liquid. When the whole liquid ceases flowing divide it into two halves. Put one half aside. Pour [onto the remaining half] an equal amount of sesame oil and beat (agitate) the mixture strongly and repetitively with a wooden beater for one hour until it hardens and thickens. Leave it for the rest of the day and overnight if you are in a hurry, otherwise leave it for two or three days if you are not in a hurry because the longer it stays the better it ferments. Cool it down and put it in a copper cauldron and set under it a strong fire. Each time it thickens water it with the sharp water from the one half that was put aside as mentioned above. You will continue kindling the fire and watering with the sharp water until it becomes grainy and ripens. Continue beating (mixing) it so that it will not burn. Put it down and pour it into a mirkan (a large vessel) and beat it and water it little by little, then pour it again into the cauldron and place it on fire, let it be a strong fire, and whenever it tends to become dry, water it with the sharp water little by little while you are stirring so that it will not burn. Continue like this until the water is consumed and the soap is well cooked and its consistency becomes like that of the shoemakers glue, known as ashras. Make a mold from wood, similar to the mold of bricks, but larger. Spread a coarse cotton


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cloth or a piece of khasf and place the mold over it. Pour the soap into the mold. The purpose of the mold is to prevent the soap from flowing until it thickens. Leave it for one night and one day until it solidifies. Then cut it with a knife as is usual. If you want the soap to be perfumed add to it, on the last cooking on fire, choice perfumes and saffron and whatever scents you like then pour it as above mentioned, if God wills. (Salhiyyeh) ⁂ Al-mukhtara` fi funun min al- suna`, 13th CE

From Liber diversarum arcium (Book of Various Arts), ca. 1300:

[1.26.1] On Making Soap XXVI: Take a measure of common oil, and two quarters of capitellum [i.e. potash lye, see 1.26.2] and leave it to boil in some vessel on a slow fire until it arrives at thickness, which you test by putting a drop on marble, if it will have held itself together in shape it is good – and once again [i.e. as one did for gum] you may know [which capitellum is best] by the taste on the tongue: that which clearly gives a sharp taste – and do this three times, in the same way put in [more capitellum] but that which has less sharp taste following the first, and, lo and behold, Saracen soap. (Clarke) ⁂ Liber diversarum arcium, ca. 1300 [1.26.2] Capitellum [i.e. potash lye] is made thus. Take two measures of ashes, and a third of quicklime, and put it in some vessel with a hole in, and put onto it two [measures of] water or otherwise according to the volume of the vessel, suspend that vessel, the first water that comes out thereafter, will be the first [quality] capitellum, which is strongest, then the other water will be the second [quality] less strong than the first, and so on four times. (Clarke) ⁂ Liber

diversarum arcium, ca. 1300 [1.26.3] Note: Jewish [or: ‘Judean’], or French or sharp soap is made thus: take two pounds of strained rams tallow and a pound of the first capitellum and mix them, and boil on a slow fire, always stirring with a spatula, until it is sticky as is abovementioned, and there can be added the ashes of lupins, or of beans, or of lentils, or of chickpeas. (Clarke) ⁂ Liber diversarum arcium, ca. 1300

From the Chapter Book of Santa Maria del Gualdo Mazzocco Vat. Lat. 5949, the verso of the last folio of martyrology has two notable annotations, one a recipe for white soap. The formula for making soap is written in a cursive script of the thirteenth-fourteenth centuries, the first two lines are mostly erased. A title is given: “Ad faciendum saponem album.” The incipit is “Accipe” and the explicit, “et factus erit sapo perfectus.” Enough of the recipe remains to tell that the lye and other ingredients were combined in several boilings. (Hilken) From Segreti per Colori, 15th CE [?]:

221. To make musk soap.—Take a vase of whatever size you like, made of good earth, and let it be rather thick in order that the weight of the lime may not break it, and near the bottom of it there must be a hole, closed with a peg, and on the inside, in front of the hole, you must put a wooden platter, and upon the platter you must put a lump of tow, enough to cover the bottom of the jar, and upon the tow, in front of the hole, put a small piece of thin linen. Then mix two parts


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of ashes from the baths with one part of quicklime, and place the mass upon the piece of linen that is upon the tow in the vase, and spread it well all over it. Then take rain-water, according to the quantity of the ashes, and pour it into the vase at two or three times, because it boils up and absorbs the water, and there must be enough water to cover the ashes to the depth of two fingers'-breadth or less, and when it ceases to boil, let it stand for a whole night, and in the morning take out the peg and let out the ley; and when you have drawn off a bocale full of it, pour it back into the vase, and it will become rather thick; do this two or three times, and the last time let it rest a little, and then strain it ; and if it comes away too fast, press the ashes down a little in the vase, because it must issue from the whole like a thread in order that the ley may run off clear. And when the ley has entirely run off so that the ashes remain dry, take half a jug of water, and pour it over the ashes in the vase, and when it is strained pour it back 3 or 4 times into the vase, and the last time draw off the ley clear. And if you wish to know whether the ley is properly made, put a fresh egg in it; if the egg goes to the bottom it is not good, and if the egg floats it is good. Then take 9 bocali of this ley, and one roll of deer's or cow's tallow, which makes lb. 2 oz. 9, and melt it well over the fire; and when it is well boiled pour it into this ley, and keep stirring it for the space of half an hour ; then let it rest for a night or more, and if you wish to add musk or any other scent to it, reduce it to a fine powder, and add it to the tallow which is in the ley, mix it up well and let it settle. Then put the soap in the sun in order that it may refine itself better, and it will harden so that you may make it up into balls, and it is done. (Merrifield) ⁂ Segreti per Colori, 15th CE

Note: While this recipe is undated, Merrifield tentatively dates it to the 15th century due to specific events mentioned in other places, which all occurred before the first quarter of the 15th century. If that is the case, then this recipe is the oldest recipe to mention using an egg as a density meter (also called the Egg Float Test). Since there is absolutely no mention of this test anywhere else, not until the mid 16th century, I wonder if this recipe truly is from the 15th CE or if a scibe updated it sometime along the way. From the Hs. Sloane 345 (Londen), 16th CE:

628. To make spanish soap.

Recipe white ash and living chalk [naturally found chalk] and water and make lye therewith. And put it in a pot and below it a small one, and stop the pot up, and let it stand .ij. days, then open up the hole of the pot, and what comes out first is called capitellum, that together in the lye goes over the fire (fol. 45v) And therein oil should be poured, and simmered until it becomes thick. This is how it becomes black from the simmering and the cooking. But if you want to make white soap, add to your oil liquid only made of capitello, that is called sapo gallicus et factum est. (Braekman) ⁂ Hs. Sloane 345, 16th CE

From the Notandissimi Secreti de l’Arte Profumatoria. A FARE Ogli, acque, paste, balle,

moscardini, uccelletti [little bird] paternostri, e tutte l’arte in iera come si ricerca, si ne le citta di

Napoli del Reame, come in Roma, e quivi in Venetia nuova mente posti in luce, 1555:

To harden white soap, & bright-shining, lasting, and made very strong.

Take alum feces [tartar ashes] as well as soap and boil for five hours; throw dry salt in the boiler, then boil with weak lye for every one pound of salt, and put one ounce of alum feces


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[tartar ashes] in the aforementioned weak lye, and boil well for a quarter of an hour, and afterwards drain the lye with the alum, add the salt, leave it, grind well, and then throw over the soap in the manner of making ricotta, see it is hard, and the luster the mentioned alum feces [tartar ashes] gives to the mentioned white soap. ⁂ Notandissimi, 1555 To make soap without fire

Take quicklime and equal amounts of sodium carbonate (obtained from ashes), grind together and pass through a sieve. Then place the mixture in a tub so as to make a strong lye solution. To determine whether or not this is strong use an egg: if the egg floats and barely exposes as much of its shell as would equal the width of the nail of the little finger, then add lime and ashes and make the mixture stronger. When it reaches proper strength, mix in one third oil and two thirds lye, adding two quarters of an ounce of tragacanth gum and the white of ten eggs, beaten. Mix the tragacanth gum with a copper's worth o floured starch and then add all of it to the lye while mixing well with a stock notched at the end, so that all will be thickened. Then cut the soap into square pieces or long or round pieces as pleases you and place them to dry. To prevent their sticking to the table, shake some lime on it. Let it dry and you will have an excellent fine soap. ⁂ Notandissimi, 1555 To make hard soap with fire.

Take the aforementioned goods, & put them to boil in a vessel over heat, and when it boils gradually add stoneground flour of starch [wheat], & incorporate well, & let it boil for three hours, & when it rises take it off the fire, & mix well for an hour, & afterwards add some water, & have a little white lime, & let it be so for four days, & becomes hard. ⁂ Notandissimi, 1555

From The secretes of the reuerende Maister Alexis of Piemount Containyng excellent remedies

against diuers diseases, woundes, and other accidents, with the manner to make distillations,

parfumes, confitures, diynges, colours, fusions and meltynges, by Girolamo Ruscelli, 1558:

Liquide and softe Sope of Naples.

TAke stronge lie, with two partes of the asshes of the wood of the tree called in latine Cerrus, which is a kind of tre like to a poplar, hauing a streight longe stem bearinge a kinde of maste, roughe withoute like a Chestin, and one parte of quicke time, and make it so stronge that it may beare a newe laide egge swim|minge betwene two waters. Take eighte potfulles of this lie very hote, a potfull of deeres grease or suet well strained cleane: mingle them and set theim on the fyre, but see that they seeth not. Put all in a greate vessell leaded within hauinge a large bottome, leauinge it in Sommer in the Sunne, and styrringe it foure or fyue times a daye with a sticke, and note that you muste set it in the day time in the sunne, and the night time in the ayre abroade, so that it raine not, continuinge thus the space of eight daies. Let it ware as firme and as harde as you will, so that it remain neuerthelesse in the forme of past, and the older it is, the better it wil be. Than af|terwarde take of this masse or past, as much as you wil and put it in a vessell leaded, styrringe it well with a sticke, and adde to the same as muche fine Muskte Rose water as you will: kepe it eyghte dayes in the Sonne, styrringe it from time to time, as is aforesaide: and if it waxe to harde, put Rose water to it, in such quantitie, that it be neither to harde nor to soft, and fill as manye litle boxes with all, as you will. ⁂ The Alexis, 1558


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A very exquisyte sope, made of diuers thinges.

TAke Aluminis catini thre vnces, quicke lyme one part stronge lye that will beare an egge swimminge be|twene two waters, thre pottels, a pot of commun oyle: mengle all well together, puttinge to it the white of an Egge well beaten, and a dysshefull of the meale or floure of Amylum, and an vnce of Romayne Vitrioll, 55 or redde leade well beaten into poulder, and mixe it continuallye for the space of three houres, then lette it stande, by the space of a daye, and it will bee righte and perfite. Finallye, take it oute, and cutte it in pieces: af|ter sette it to drie twoo daies, in the wynde, but not in the sunne. Occupie alwaies of this sope, when you will washe youre head, for it is verie holsome, and maketh faier heare. ⁂ The Alexis, 1558 Sope of Naples.

TAke Deares grease, or the Tallow of a Cowe, or yonge Calfe, or of a Kidde a pounde, put it in a ves|sell of earth well leaded: and after you haue well stray|ned it, put vpon it, with discretion to much nor to litle, of Sope makers lie, the first, best, and strongest of three sortes that they vse, called the maister lie, and kepe the saied grease in the heate of the Sunne, mi[...]ynge it well there, and like wise in the night abrode in the ayer: but take hede that there come no water to it. Whan you se that it is somewhat drie, put to it againe as muche as shall neede of the seconde and thirde lie, mixed together which Sope makers vse: Rubbe a litle vpon your hand beyng cleane, and if it make a frothe, it is a token it is made. ⁂ The Alexis, 1558

From The seconde part of the Secretes of Master Alexis of Piemont by hym collected out of diuers

excellent authours, and newly translated out of Frenche into Englishe, with a generall table, of all

the matters conteined in the saied boke, by Girolamo Ruscelli, 1560:

To make black Sope for clothes, with all the signes and tokens that it giueth and maketh in

beiling.

TAke thirty pounde of vnsleckt white lime, if you can get it, and that is in greate hole peces and not in pouder, and foure skore and tenne pounde of the strongest ashes you can finde. Then order & dresse the ashes rounde about the lime, in forme and maner of Morter, and sprinkle with a broome weate in water the small peces of lime a little at ones and often, to the intent that the fire maie en|ter into it, and whan it is well mollified and augmen|ted by reason of the heate whiche is in it, let there bee two of you, the one to incorporate well with a spade or shouell the lime with the ashes, and the other to sprinkle water with the broome well vpon it & round about it, to the intent there rise no pouder or dust of it. And lette all so well be mixed, that a man may not knowe or discerne the lime from the dust or ashes, and water it so much round about, that in taking a hand|full of the same matier, and in wringing it, it cleaue togither. And whan you see that it raiseth no more pouder or dust, giue it no more water. This done close vp togither all this morter with your spade, and lette it so remaine in a heape twoo or three houres, for it 129 heateth and boileth beyng in a heape, and wha~ it ma|keth chinkes or cleftes about it, it is a signe that it is risen. And if it be in cold weather you maie couer it, for feare that it take no colde and so lo se his heate, for than it would make no good magistrale. Whan all this is done, straine the said mater in a vessell of earth hauing a hole in the bottome, beyng couerid with a little strawe, and a dishe ouer it, to the intent that the mater maie runne in time: and whan you putte it in presse egally euery where as muche as you can, and lette it be


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alwaies euen aboue: then poure vpo~ it some hote water, or els do as followeth, as I my selfe doe. Make ready sixe or eight pailes full of the strained lie, and poure it on the vessell I meane of the first whiche is good, and at the first put in two or three pailes full, the whiche beyng sunke doune, put in as much more, and open not the hole in the bottome, vntil al the ma|ter be drunke vp: then let it runne out by little & little, and bicause you maie the better knowe the firste, the seconde and the third, take an Egge newe laide, and binde it rounde about with a threede and as the ma|gistrale lie commeth out, put the Egge into it, and whiles the egge remaineth aboue, put it al into a ves|sell, for it is the first whiche you ought to make muche of. And whan the egge sinketh in the lie, put that se|cond by it selfe: and if you can gette of the first fo[...]rty pounde, you shall get of the seconde thirtie, and of the thirde twentie, and of the fourth asmuch as you will: And let all these be put by them selues: & if you couer them well that they do not euaporate nor breath out, they will continue alwaies a yeare beyng still good, whan you haue done take xxx. pound of the first, and ten of the seco~d, and put them togither and looke well if the egge remaine aboue, & if it appeare not muche, weaken it no more, for it shalbe wel so. And note, that vnto three pound of the saide lie, you muste haue one pound of oile, and in pouring it in sturre and mixe it 130 well with a stick, for feare that the oile be not hurt by the violence of the saide lie: And make this composi|tion at night, to the intent that it maie remaine in in|fusion all the night: then in the morning seeth it the space of seuen or eight houres or more, according as the quantite is great or little: for whan it is aboue a hundreth pound, it must seeth ten houres or more: and whan it beginneth to seeth and swell much, take it by and by from the fire, and sturre it alwaies aboue vn|till it beginne to boile softly. And in the meane time cease not to sturre it, for feare it burne to the bottom. And whan you make the composition in a caudron, let it neuer be full by a hand breadth, bicause it riseth and swelleth alwaies in seething, and the oile would bee loste: and mixyng it oftentimes the oile incor|porateth with the lie, and seedeth the sooner. And whan it hath sodden about eight or nine houres, you maie beginne to assaie and proue it, and see that you keepe alwaies a little of the firste and of the seconde for all occasitions that maie chaunce. And whan it hath boiled vnto the saide houre, you shall see it waxe thicke, and make the bubbles in seething long and thicke. Than maie you beginne to make your profe and assaie. That is to saie, in taking a little of it with a spoone, and putting it into a little earthen dishe, and lette it coole, then cut it with a little sticke, and if it close togither againe, it is a signe that it is sodden inough: and if it doe not close togither againe, it is not, and therefore finishe the seething of it. And make many of these proofes and assaies. And whan it is sod|den, take the fire from vnder it, and so take it of, and sette it in some coole place, and whan it is colde you maie occupie of it, and it will be good and parfite. And if you make it with cleere oile although it bee strong, it is all one: but if you make it with oile parcht or thicke, it will not bee verie cleere. One of the beste signes that you maie see in it whan it beginneth to 131 waxe into a thicke substance, is that in taking of it vp with a spoone, the thredes or little strekes doe breake without shrinking vp again, & this is a signe that it is sodden inough. And whan you haue taken vp a lit|tel, and haue lette it coole and so cut it, and than if it be ferme and faste on the sides, and in setting it vp it tarry vpright, than it is sodden. And if after an houre it were not sodden, that is to saie, that it had not the sinewe, put vpo~ it a little of the first


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magistrall a little at ones, and so lette it boile an houre or a halfe. good signes, you shall put yet a little more to it vntil you make it haue a fast and solide bodie, & let it be not to soft nor to hard. And he that hath experience of this knoweth what is to be done in seeyng it boile onely. And whan you see that it is well take it from the fire. ⁂ The seconde Alexis, 1560 The signes that Sope giueth in seething, if it be to harde, or to softe, whether it be liquide

or white.

IF whan the the Sope is sodden you would take it out, and that you see it white, and in making the proofe or assaie it waxe harde, note, that than it is verie good, & if you will haue it strong take it of, for beyng made it returneth to his colour againe, but it remaineth still strong. But if it bee to strong, it is not to be commmendid, for it waxeth hard, and so goeth in pieces whan you would occupie it, so that you shall be faine to seeth it againe, and to make it returne into a good and measurable sorte, for beyng so stronge or hard it fretteth to muche the clothes and consumeth theim. And by my Counsell you shall sette it on the fire againe, but putting firste into the caudron a little of the third or fourth magistrale lie, togither with a little oile, & so boile it, This don put in the stro~g sope, & al wil incorporate togither, & let it so seeth an houre, and you shall see that it will not be so strong or hard. 132 And indeede it is better whan it is somewhat softer. It is a thing of greate importance to know with the tong what there lacketh in the boiling. Take your ladle and sturre it well about: and then take a little vpon your fingar, and putte it vpon the ende of your [...]ng, and you shall Iudge of your self what there lac|keth, for if it be stronge beyonde measure, you shall thinke that a cole of fire had tutched your tonge: but if it be not to strong, it will not seeme vnto you so bur|ning sharp in tutching it with your tonge. And whan it is so strong it hath neede of the fourth magistrale lie with a little oile. And if it were to soft (which thing you shall also knowe by your tonge) it hath neede of the first magistrale lie, & giue it these mixtures a little [...]t ones, to the intent that it be not let or hindred from seething, & mingle it in faire & softly. It is also a great signe and token that the sope is strong, whan it brea|keth in little pieces, and leaueth muche magistrale lie in the bottom of the vessell, where it remaineth long: but whan it is softe and euill sodden, it maketh as it were a certaine gelley: than you shall putte into it a little of the firste magistrale, and boile it vntill it bee well sodden, and waxe hard and firme, but whan it is ynough it will drawe towarde the colour of greene waxe some what darke and obscure, and that shalbe whan the sope is somewhat softe, and not muche sod|den. The signe and token that strong sope ought to haue whan it is well sodden and indiffere~tly inough, is, that it will haue the colour of Marmelade, & drawe somewhat toward a Violet, and shall be obscurely glistering, and haue a faire floure vpo~ it, and shalbe good and parfite. But whan the black sope is become somewhat white and strong giue it a little oile, or els some of the third magistrale lie, & that a little at ones, least you weaken it to muche, and so it should lose his strength: for than you should giue it more oile, and more of the first lie, and so there should bee great dan|ger 133 in it. And therfore beware and see that you bestow and distribute wel your lies. But in this cace you shal giue it a little oile, and in boiling it, it will be whiter, and softer. After this, continue with the first lie, and lot it be hote and a little at ones, and prouing it often times as we haue saide afore, you shall by & by know that it will be well trimmed and ordered. And whan it shalbe to muche sodden, or burnt, the signe or token shalbe whan it is so strong and white out of measure, that it is burned. Than must you giue it some water onely, or some of the fourth lie hote, not


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boiling it any more, or at the least very little, & by this meanes you maie parfitely atchiue and come to an ende of your worke. And alwaies whan you will adde or put to it any mater vpo~ the caudron, boile it euermore a little, bicause it wil incorporate the sooner: And make often times your profes and essaies. And if your worke go well, do no more in it, but be diligent and circumspect in taking it from the fire, and take it so hote as it is out of the caudron. For to make afterward the Magis|trale, you shall do thus: whan you haue gotten out the first, which kepeth or beareth the Egge aboue, which wilbe about nine pintes, and of the seconde that bea|reth not the Egge, a thirdendeale, whiche is three pintes, and of the thirde the halfe whiche wilbe three half pintes, and of the fourth asmuche as you will: for of that menne vse not muche, and as nighe as you can kepe them all by themselues and couered, bicause they will so keepe well inough. True it is that some men are wont to put them all togither, that is to saie one measure of the first, one of the second, and half a mea|sure of the third, and somewhat lesse, & one measure of oile, whiche are in all three measures and a halfe, and by this meanes you maie multiplie asmuche of it as you will. After you haue thus ordered and dressed it, in the caudron, make fire vnder it, so that it may be but skant luke warme, and sturre it alwaies in the 134 caudron with your ladle, to the inte~t that the oile maie incorporate, & perse thorow the magistrale: then leaue it al the night in infusion, and giue it fire again in the morning, and whan it is hote sturre it well that it may incorporate togither. And note, that it must boile ten or twelue houres, and wil not make any lie at the bottome, and in boiling lift vp your ladle a high, and it will make long strekes like threede the space of sixe houres, and then will beginne to fasten and close vp it self, and will make strekes whiche beyng broken will returne vpward againe, & that is a signe that it is not yet sodden inough: but whan they breake not neither returne backward but remaine fast and whole than it is sodden, and therfore you shall take it from the fire, for this is the true signe & token of it. The other signe is, whan it is cold cut it in little rolles, and if they sta~d vpright and not fall, it is a signe that it is made. Laie of it oftentimes vpon your tonge before it be sodden, and if you feele it to strong giue it a little of the third or of the last magistrale, according as you shal perceiue it to be strong, or els little or inough after as you shal see it hath nede. If you see it to white and strong, giue it a little oile at ones, and it will alter & turne. Whan it is

almost sodden and that it make a gelley, giue it a little of the second or of the third, according as it shall haue neede by your Iudgement. If it passe his ordi|narie time or houres in seething, and that it fasten not neither close it selfe, giue it a little of the first: but lette not the sope be to strong, therefore assaie it first: for that were no small fault. But if it be not to strong nor to white, and yet doe not fasten and close it selfe, you maie giue it of the first, as we haue saide, and if it be somewhat strong, you maie giue it of the seconde after the accustomed maner. Whan it is almost sod|den and maketh as it were a gelley, and is strong, and not being white, giue it a little of the fourth, but yet very little at ones, to thintent you take not awaie 135 to muche of his force. But whan it is almost sodden and is very white, giue it a little oile, and it will bee well. Whan it should be sodden and that the houre or time of his seething is paste, and is neither strong nor white, giue it a little of the firste or of the second, or of the other, after as you see it stronge more or lesse, and it will returne into a good state, and muste boile fayre and softly, for feare it sticke not to the bottome, and burne by the reason of to muche fire: for suche a fire is of great importance. The fourth lie, is not set a worke but whan it maketh as it were a gelley, and is strong and to rawe.


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There bee some good Maisters & worke men, that put in the second magistrale with the oile, to the intent that the oile mighte not bee so muche hurt by his strength, and then they putte in a little of the third, and then a little of the fourth, and after that a little of the firste: but there is no hurte in that, for there bee measures in it, and these mixtions are made in the presence of other menne, whan the maister will not suffer it to bee knowen, for feare leaste that other should easely learns it. The good and parfite magistrale lie will beare alwaies an egge ouerthwart, and wayeth euer more twise as muche as water doeth, and contrarie wise whan it is lesse strong it wayeth lesse, and the oile waieth as muche as the fourth. If you order and appoint the saide lie[...] by measure, giue euer the aduantage to the oile foure or sixe for the hundred, if you will haue it fatte and faire: for he that is well experimented in it knoweth well in boiling what is needefull to it, be it oile, lie, or any other thing. Whan you will make white Sope, keepe and vse the same meane and waie, & whan it is more than half sodden, put into it some salt, according to the measure & quantite of it, and let it boile a little: then take it out of that caudron, & put it into another, & whan it beginneth to boile put in againe more salt, 136 and let it seeth to his parfite measure. This done, set it to drie in a plaine and eue~ place, and cut it in peces, for it will be parfite good. Menne make the like with Soda, as they do vse at venise, the salt must be grossely beaten, and ten pound of it for the hundreth, and mixe it with it all about, and put in but a little at ones. ⁂ The seconde Alexis, 1560

From I secreti de la Signora Isabella Cortese by Isabella Cortese, 1561:

Chapter 4. To make white soap without fire

Take a pound of alum / limestone four pounds and mix it all together / and make it such a lye the same as if on makes black soap. But you have to know that one needs to have for one pound Alum a tub full of lye / and for three pounds of quicklime a bucket full is enough. Take after that three bowls full of the above mentioned [alkaline mixture] / and a bowl full oil / and mix it all together / take thereafter two drachma white soap finely small grated / and a drachma stone alum brewed two drachma Amidon [starch] (or “Kraffemeel”) made from wheat / mix all of that together / and stir it with the mentioned lye and oil under each other with a little bit of wood for four hours like a mash / so long until you see it is enough and it gets thick / afterwards grate [stir] this another quarter hour long / so it sets like a thick mash / pour it afterwards in a mold so you have a good soap. ⁂ Frauen Isabellae Cortese, 1596 Chapter 13. To increase soap.

You shall make a small oven from ash and chalk / that can hold the crockery at the bottom / take thereafter ten pounds of grated soap / you shall put that in a pot / with so much lye / that it become in the fire like a salve / Put it thereafter in a ballshaped mold / and set it at a separate place for a day / put it thereafter again into the small oven as before / and put as well on each pice a little bit salt / so it will become better / and cover it on top well / let it sit for two or three days / until you see that it is made well / let it thereafter become dry in a dark place / not in the sun. ⁂ Frauen Isabellae Cortese verborgene und heimlige Künste und Wunderwerct, 1596 Chapter 31. To make soap without fire.

Take two parts Sosa [?] / and one part chalk / and put efford in it / that both are well ground / put the chalk into water / therafter the sosa / and lay it in a mortar in which the bottom in is


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perforated / put a little on top of the hole / and pour water in it / until the first lye comes from it / take thereafter the same lye / and strain a part of a fresh egg into it / and the other lye keep also aside a bit / thereafter to the third / do not add any more of the egg / and also make the test / strain from one part lye as much as from the other / and do the experiment with the egg / and take three parts of the lye / and one part clear oil / and to two slices you have to add four ounces salpeter / and two ounces of ground alum / and you have to put the lye in there too / and let it sit for twentyfour hours / and you have to stir for a while every four hours / and you have to put it in a container / and set it in the warm sun / and when it has set like a mush / cut it in pieces / and around these pieces lay chalk. ⁂ Frauen Isabellae Cortese, 1596 Chapter 32. To make soft soap.

Take three small measuring units Lentisei ashes / and quicklime / mix it all well / put it into a mortar, grind it well / put water on top / and make a lye like described above / make also the test with the egg / until you remember and understand. When you make soap / take two quarter oil / and put them in a kettle / and also from the hour on add as much lye into it / and let it boil well / and when it has boiled well / it will become thick / and can be pulled / put therein the above mentioned lye / each time a little and again a little / you have to stir nevertheless all the time with a spoon / so it becomes thicker / when you take it out of the kettle / and the form is like honey / so it is good / and it‘s properly cooked / and that is also a sign / that it has drunken up the lye / add thereafter from the hour on again oil in there / so the mentioned soap with give itself into the foam / and when you see a bit of foam in the kettle / so it’s made. ⁂ Frauen

Isabellae Cortese verborgene und heimlige Künste und Wunderwerct, 1596 Chapter 33. To make soap.

For ten pounds water / one needs a pound and a half of soap. ⁂ Frauen Isabellae Cortese, 1596 From The Treasurie of Commodious Conceits, & hidden secrets and may be called, the

huswiuescloset, of healthfull prouision. Gathered out of sundrye experiments lately practised by

men of great knowledge, by John Partridge, 1573:

To make Muske Sope. cap. Liii

TAke stronge lye made of chalk, and six pounde of stone chalk: iiii, pounde of Deere Suet, and put them in the lye; in an ear|then potte, and mingle it well, and kepe it the space of forty daies, and mingle and styr it. iii. or. iiii. times a daye, tyll it be consumed, and that, that remayneth. vii. or. viii. dayes after, then you muste put a quarter of an ounce of Muske, and when you haue don so, you must al flyrre it, and it wyll smell of Musk. ⁂ The Treasurie, 1573

From A shorte discourse of the most rare and excellent vertue of nitre wherein is declared the

sondrie and diuerse cures by the same effected, and how it may be aswell receiued in medicine

inwardly as outwardly plaiterwise applied by Thomas Chaloner, 1584:

But if those affectes be deepe rooted, and doe require stronger scouring out: Then put oken ashes, and vnquenched lyme, in a meisshing tubbe, the one cowched by course vpon the other by seuerall layes or couches, beginning at the nethermost with the ashes and leauing vppermost with the ashes.


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Then poure therein hoat water, or rather the warmed vrine of yong boy children, in quantitie sufficient (to wit) so much licour, as the ashes and lime will receiue, to be but filled with the licour to the vpper ashes. And if you take yong boy childes vrine, it may be had at the schooles, setting vesselles for that purpose. Then (after sufficient steeping with the ashes and lime) boyle that mixture together, and lastelie braine and let runne the lie into a receiuing vessell, and let it settle to become cleare, and then (by a spyggot somewhat higher the~ the groundes settled) draw the cleare lye from the troubled groundes, and boyle that cleare lye downe againe vnto such wasting and strength, that it can beare an egge. Then distill it into a limbeck (if you wil) 5 and put by, the weaker licour which droppeth first, & reserue for your purpose the strongest licour that distilleth the first weaker water: And vnto so much of that strong distilled wa|ter, or else vnto the strong Lye it selfe vndistilled (so much as will couer the bottom of an earthen boyling pipking, or skillet well glased within, and fitted with a couer of the same stuffe, and so set ouer a soft fire of wood coales) melt therein, for e|uerie pinte of that strong distilled water, or strong Lye, two pound weight of chosen Sope not ranke nor stinking. And the~ cast thereto by little and little, twise so much weight of Nitre as your sope weyed) and as the Nitre is all dissolued therein, boile them altogether to the wasting of the said distilled water or lycour of Lie. Foreseeing that your boyllyng vessell be but a third part full of them all, least they fome ouer. This done, take it from the fire, and slurre it still with a sticke or splatter vntill it be come colde and stiffe. Then forme your stuffe into flat pellets or small round balles: and put the~ on a fayre borde to drie and to harden in the winde and sha|dowe, and reserue them to wet (at sundrie times as you shall neede) with iuyce of lymondes or of soure Orenges, or with distilled vynegre, or with distilled vrine of yong boy children, or with the flewgme water of distilled wine. And with the slyme of one of those pellets or balles so moisted, rubbe the stayninges or spottes of the skinne, suffering it to lie on a rea|sonable space: And then wash it of with broath of barlie floure, or of wheate braune boylled with stamped rootes of mallowes, or with distilled water of the coddes and flowers of beanes, or of roses, or of whaye distilled. ⁂ A shorte discourse, 1584

From The second part of the good hus-wiues iewell. Where is to be found most apt and readiest

wayes to distill many wholsome and sweet waters, by Thomas Dawson, 1597:

To make good sope.

FIrst you must take halfe a strike of as|shen Ashes, and a quarte of Lime, then you must mingle both these together, and then you must fil a pan full of water and seeth them well, so done, you must t take foure pound of beastes tallow, and put it into the Lye, and séeth them together vn|till it be hard. ⁂ The second part of the good hus-wiues iewell, 1597


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Soap Recipes Many recipes especially in later manuscripts are not about how to make soap, but about how to use soap to make something else: whether it be medicine, scented laundry soaps or erasers. It is clear soap is sold and bought to use in many different ways, with surprisingly, least of all: personal grooming. Unless you’re sick. Then there are many recipes using soap to heal skin conditions; including conditions that could have been prevented by frequent washing, with or without soap, to begin with.

Apothecary From A most excellent and learned vvoorke of chirurgerie called Chirurgia parua Lanfranci

Lanfranke of Mylayne his briefe: reduced from dyuers translations to our vulgar or vsuall frase,

and now first published in the Englyshe prynte by Iohn Halle chirurgien. Who hath thervnto

necessarily annexed by Lanfranco, 13th CE:

Definition: Sapo. SOpe, [Note: Quoniam sicut spatha incidit ] whiche the Arabians cal Sabon, is of diuers kindes in opera pandactarum. As Sapo Gallicus, Sapo muscatus, and Sapo Spatharenticus, so called of his excedyng sharpnes and cut|tyng, 109 and is also called Mollis, niger, & Iudaicus, wherwith they washe sylke. [Note: Gutta uel [...] qua pri[...]a [...] ponariorum. ] The softe or graye sope, is made of the stronge lye called Capitellum, and oyle together. Hard sope hath in composition in the steade of oyle, shepes talowe. They are of a hot[...]e and composed exulceratiue operation, and doe scoure, putrefie, and maturate, harde apostemes.

From Approoved medicines and cordiall receiptes with the natures, qualities, and operations of

sundry samples. Very commodious and expedient for all that are studious of such knowledge, by Thomas Newton, 1580:

Definition: Sapo, Sope, SOye is abstersiue, attractyue, and vl|ceratyue. From the Lacnunga manuscript of Leechcraft: a collection of three 10th CE Anglo-Saxon manuscripts on medicine:

31. For a good bone-salve against headache and against disease of all limbs there must be rue, radish and sorrel, iris, feverfew, ashthroat, boarthroat, celandine, beet and betony, ribwort and alehoof, elecampane, alexandria's roots, crowfoot and burdock, lithewort and lamb's cress, hillwort, hazel, quitch, woodruff and a shoot of wratt, springwort, spearwort, waybread and wormwood, lupins and 'averth', hedge clivers and hops, yarrow and cuckoo sorrel, henbane and broadleek; take equals amounts of all these plants; put them in a mortar; pound them all together and add clusters of ivy berries; and take ash bark and willow's twigs and oak bark and myrtle bark and crabapple bark and willow bark and woodbine's leaves -- these must all be taken from the lower part, and from the eastern side of the tree; slice all these barks together and boil them


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in holy water until they soften well; add them to the plants in the mortar; pound all together; then take hart's grease and he-goat's grease and old mulled wine and bull's grease and boar's grease and ram's grease; let them all be melded together and poured into a ball, then let all the bones be brought together which can be collected, and the bones be crushed with an axe's back, and be boiled, and let the fat float, and let it be made into a ball; then take old butter, and boil the plants and the barks, putting them all together; once it be boiled, let it then set; scrape all the fat into a pan -- as much as the salve you wish to get and as you can reduce to a tar; set it over a fire, allow it to simmer, not to boil too much, until it be enough; sieve through a cloth; set it back over the fire; then take nine cloves of blessed garlic, pound them in wine, wring them through a cloth; scrape the plant myrrh into it and font-holy wax and burning storax and white incense; pour it inside the salve, as much as would be three eggshells' worth; then take old soap and the marrow of an old ox and eagle's marrow; make them into a tar, and mix them with a spoon made from quickbeam until it be dark; then sing thereover "benedictus dominus deus meus" and the second "benedictus donimus deus israel" and "magnificat" and "credo in unum" and the prayer "Matthew, Mark, Luke, John"; whenever the sore may be, let the salve be applied first to the head. (Pollington) ⁂ Lacnunga, 10th CE

Note: Technically this recipe is not for soap but for a salve. Since it is one of the earliest mentions of soap as an ingredient I decided to include it in this Compendium, as it would collaborate soap was made at least as early as the 10th CE in Anglo-Saxon England. From A thousand notable things of sundry sortes. Wherof some are wonderfull, some straunge,

some pleasant, diuers necessary, a great sort profitable and many very precious, by Thomas Lupton, 1354:

MAke powder of vnslackt Lyme, and mixe it with black Sope, and annoynt any Men therwith, & the Men wyl fall away, and when the roote is come out, annoynt it with oyle of Balme, & it wyl heale it perfectly. ⁂ A thousand notable things, 1354 A Precious and a proued medicine for the Stone. Seethe in white wine, Tyme and Parcely verye well, then streyne it, and into a good draught therof, shaue a spoonefull of whyte sope, and geue it to them that are grieued with the Stone: and it wyll make them make water with speede. ⁂ A thousand notable things, 1354 SOpe myxt with a lytle salt, healeth perfectly a Fel|lon, Uncome, or other sore or swolne fynger, with speede. I knowe that this hath bene well proued. ⁂ A thousand notable things, 1354 TAke black Sope, and almost as much of Ginger in powder, and mixe them well together: then an|noynt therwith any Tetter or Ringwoorme euerie day, for the space of fowre or fiue daies together, and it wyll heale it certaynly. Proued. ⁂ A thousand notable things, 1354 THere is nothing better to drawe forth Thornes, prickes, or any other thing whatsoeuer, in any part of the body whersoeuer it be, then blacke Sope applyed to the place: letting the same lye· thereto twelue howres without remouing of the same. ⁂ A thousand notable things, 1354


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From Jonghe Lanfranc, anonymous, 15th C:

Folio 16va: Or take this salve: Take hogs snout and powder of spanish green and soap: mix this all together and add one spoon living chalk, mix this together in a mortar, and put this on. This salve helps with fistula's, normal and all lingering discomforts. (Müller) ⁂ Lanfranc, 15th C

From Hs. 8o MS. Med. 3 (Kassel), 16th C:

12. Item another of the same. Take nitrum [natron, native soda], that's a type of salt, and asyl, and soap and oil and simmer to cook until it becomes thick. And therewith anoint the iocte

biden viere [joints that burn?]. (Braekman) ⁂ Hs. 8o MS. Med. 3, 16th C 168. Unslaked lime and soap as much [as fits] in a nutshell and cover the hole and the bad goes out. (Braekman) ⁂ Hs. 8o MS. Med. 3, 16th C

From T bouck va wondre, anonymous, 1513:

70. To make well scented soap against scabies.

Take strong lye, in which you will do a little bit of salt, and let it well dissolve together; then take a little rosewater, and the juice of lemons, and also much of the mentioned salted lye. Add into this white soap broken and cut up small, and a little clove powder; let this stand until it becomes like dough, which you stir with a stick in a deep dish, then put it in the sun until the mentioned soap becomes hard, so that you can lightly make balls, of the size you like. After you made them, let them dry, and use them every morning to wash the hands, and you will have no more worry of the scabies, because when you do this before, you won’t bother it. (Frencken) ⁂ T bouck va wondre, 1513

From Here begynneth a newe boke of medecynes intytulyd or callyd the Treasure of pore men

whiche sheweth many dyuerse good medecines for dyuerse certayn dysseases as in the table of this

present boke more playnly shall appere. The boke of medecines, 1526:

Here foloweth diuers good me|dycynes for the morphewe

Take blacke sope in a clene cloth and put it in yelowe pysse & then anoynte the morfewe therwith. ⁂ A newe boke of medecynes, 1526 Here foloweth diuers good me|dycynes for the morphewe

Take whyte spanysshe Sope & a lytell stale ale in [...] cuppe & rubbe the sope a gaynste the cuppes botom tyll that the ale be white / & then shaue in a half penye wayght of Eyuery & let the seke drynke it at morne and laste at euen tyll he b[...] hole it hathe be often pro|[...]yd & founde trewe. ⁂ A newe boke of medecynes, 1526

From This is the glasse of helth. A great treasure for pore men, necessary and nedefull for euery

person to loke in, y[t] wyll kepe theyr body from syckenesses, and dyseases: and it sheweth how the

planettes reygne in euery houre of the daye & the nyght, with the natures & exposicions of the .xii.

sygnes, deuyded by the .xii. monethes of the yere. And after foloweth of all the euyll and daungerous


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dayes of the yere. And sheweth the remedyes, for dyuers infyrmyties and dyseases, that hurteth the

body of man, by Thomas Moulton, 1547:

For the gowte, or swellynge of ioyntes and knobbes, that co~meth of the ache of the Poxes.

Cap~. C. xix. Take May butter, and halfe a pounde of co~+myn, and a quarter of a pounde of blacke sope, and a handfull of rue, & a lytell of shepe stwet and stampe all these in a morter, than take the gall of an oxe, and a sponefull of baye salte & seye all togyther in a fryenge panne tyll it be thycke, than lay it on a wollen clothe and lay it to the ache as hote as it may be suffred, duryn|ge .iii. wekes, and euery weke a newe playster, and it shall take awaye the ache and the swellyn+ge without doubte. ⁂ This is the glasse of helth, 1547 For the swellynge in a mans knee or legge that aketh. Cap~. C .xxxii. Take a blewe or a blunket wollen clothe, as moche as wyll lappe aboute the knee or legge, & than take the whyte of two or thre henne egges and bete them well in a treen dysshe and sprede it vpon the clothe, so done / than take the yolkes and bete them in the same dysshe, and put ther|to blacke sope as moche or more, and bete them both well togyther, and whan they be wel beten togyther it wyl be a fayre salue, & than spreke it thycke vpon the same cloth, on the whyte of the egges, meately thycke, and lappe it aboute the sore knee or legge and rolle it, and let it lye thre daye and thre nyghtes, and it wyll fetche away the swellynge and the ache. ⁂ This is the glasse of

helth, 1547 For to do away a wenne. Cap~. lxxxxv.

Take & bynde fast the wenne, than take ver|dygrece, sulphur, sope, oyle of egges alom and honny, and temper theym togyther, and laye it therto, and it shall do away the wenne, and hea+le it without any doubte. ⁂ This is the glasse of helth, 1547 For the blacke Iaundes. Cap~. C .v. Take genciana, longe peper, calamus aro|maticus, auencis, lycores, reysyns of coraunce whyte sope of spayne, of eueryche. i. 3. and two sponefull of mustarde, and boyle all these in a quarte of wyne tyll the thyrde parte be wasted, and let the pacyent drynke it. ⁂ This is the glasse of helth, 1547

From The regiment of life, whereunto is added a treatise of the pestilence, with the boke of children

by Jean Goeurot, 1550:

And yf ye be disposed to brake thee skinne, and to let ye humours issue (as by suche manye one is eased) ye shall make a lytle playster of blacke sope, & aqua vite, which wil blister it with|out any greate payne. ⁂ The regiment of life, 1550 A goodly swete sope for scabbes and ytche.

Take whyte sope halfe a pounde, and stepe it in suffyciente rosewater, til it be wel soked, then take two drammes of mercinye sublymed, dissolue it in a lytle osewater, labour the sope and ye rosewater wel together, & afterward put in it a litle muske or cyuette, and kepe it. This sope is exceding good to cure a great scabbe or ytche, and that without perill, but in a chylde it shall suffyce to make it weaker of the er|curye. ⁂ The regiment of life, 1550


29

From The treasury of healthe conteynyng many profitable medycines gathered out of Hypocrates,

Galen and Auycen, by one Petrus Hyspanus [and] translated into Englysh by Humfre Lloyde who

hath added therunto the causes and sygnes of euery dysease, wyth the Aphorismes of Hypocrates,

and Iacobus de Partybus redacted to a certayne order according to the membres of mans body, and

a compendiouse table conteynyng the purginge and confortatyue medycynes, wyth the exposicyo[n]

of certayne names [and] weyghtes in this boke contayned wyth an epystle of Diocles vnto kyng

Antigonus, by Pope John XXI, 1553:

Take Bay berys and the leaues of Rue, Tyme, Organe, Pennyri|al, old sope, myngle them together and frye them and apply them vpo~ the hote goute, wyth towe, the place beinge fyrst annoyntyd wt honye it taketh away the goute and al other grefes. TO heale the burning of fire Sope anoynted vpon the place is very good.

From The seconde part of the Secretes of Master Alexis of Piemont by hym collected out of diuers



To make an instrument called Cauterium wher|with sores are burned, whiche shall raise

the skin without any greefe or paine.

TAke softe sope, and vnslekt Lime that hath not ben wet asmuche of the one as of the other, and mingle them togither: and whan you will vse of it, if the skin be not broken, laie a little piece of le|ther vpon it with some ointment and leaue a hole in the middes of the greatnesse that you will the wound shal be, and put in the same hole asmuch of the instru|ment as a whete corne & let it remaine so, and within three or fower houres it wil make a hole without any paine. But if the skin be rotten, as of a felon or cattes heare, it shall suffise to washe the place before you laie to the Cauterium, with strong Vinaigre, and within an houre it will raise the skinne without anie griefe or paine. ⁂ The seconde part of the Secretes of Master Alexis of Piemont, 1560

From The thyrde and last parte of the Secretes of the reuerende Maister Alexis of Piemont by him

collected out of diuers excellent authours, with a necessary table in the ende, conteyning all the

matters treated of in this present worke, by Girolamo Ruscelli, 1562:

Against apostumes and swelling at the roote of the nailes. TAke an akorne brayed with sope, and lay that vpon it, and they shall be well. ⁂ The thyrde Alexis, 1562 Agaynst all spots, pimples, pushes, or vlcers in the face. TAke Masticke, and the herbe called lappa maior, in Englishe clotte or greate burre, sope, waxe, olde oyle, lytarge of Siluer, as muche of the one as of the other: mingle al together, and seeth it like an oynt|ment, and annoynt the place with it, & it wil heale it. ⁂ The thyrde Alexis, 1562

Medecines of the kyndes that burne the skynne or fleshe called medicamenta caustica, or

vesicatoria, whereof the fyrst is very stronge. (Another stronger.) TAke fermentum acris, sowre Leuen, Sope, Figges, olde Walnuttes, of eche half an vnce, iris florentinae mustarde seede, vnsleckt lyme, Calcanthum, that is to saye romain Uitriol, beaten together of eche two dragmes: as muche Turpentine as is nedefull. Make of it a plaister. ⁂ The thyrde Alexis, 1562


30

From A verye excellent and profitable booke conteining sixe hundred foure score and odde

experienced medicines apperteyning unto phisick and surgerie, long tyme practysed of the expert

and Reuerend Mayster Alexis, which he termeth the fourth and finall booke of his secretes ... by Girolamo Ruscelli, 1569:

An excellent preseruatiue against the Pestilence and Dropsey. TAke one ounce of the iuyce of gréene nuttes, of the iuyce of Agrimony halfe an ounce, of the iuice of Rew three drams, of the iuice of Isope thrée ounces, of the iuice of Hempe foure ounces, meddle them togither, then take of the saide mixture halfe an ounce, of Mumia halfe a dramme, of Sugar Candy halfe an ounce, of Sugar Rosate one dramme, make a lectua|rie, of the which, dissolue in good wine the quantitie of a Chest|nut, or else in Buglosse water, or of the flowers of Marygolds, and many nights when you go to bed, vse to drinke therof. ⁂ A profitable booke, 1569 To remedie moyst sores or scabbes in childrens heads.

TAke of white Sope foure ounces, of Paritarie thrée oun|ces, of Sulphur viuo, thrée drammes, braye them altogi|ther, and with the iuice of the foresaide herbe make a liniment: and the heares being shauen awaye, annoynt therewith the childes heade: and the next day following, wash the head with 2 Sope, in the which shall be mixed the foresayd herbe, and vsing it thus certaine times, he shalbe healed. ⁂ A profitable booke, 1569

To remedie the disease Panaritio. [Note: Panaritio, is a disease which often breedeth in

ones fingars. ] TAke of the leaues of an Oke, and braye them well with Sope, and laye them on the griefe: or else bray marsh Mal|lowes with Barrowes grease and crummes of bread, and lay therof vpon the euill. It helpeth also to anoint the place wyth the filth of the eares. Also it healeth to take Reysons, the ker|nels taken out and brayed with Incense, & laid vpon the griefe. ⁂ A profitable booke, 1569 Against knobbes or wheales of the French disease.

TAke of Plantine water, and of Rosewater, of eche one pound, of Roch Allum, of Argentum sublimatum, of ech two drammes, bray the Allum and the Sublimatum, and put it with the waters into a glasse, and take a Cirdyron, and set it vpon firie coles, and let the glasse boyle vppon it vntill halfe the water be consumed, then let the pouder settle, and kéepe the water which will come forth cléere in a vessell of glasse, and when you will vse therof temper a part of it with a tripple por|tion of Rose water, or of Plantine, or more, and touche there|with the knobbes or wheales, and if the wheales or knobbes be in the face: first you must vse easie remedies, as to annoynt them with the scum of the decoction of Guacum, or else wyth 55 Sope by it selfe: or else with Precipitate mixed with Vnguen|tum Rosatum Mesue, or with the oyle of Scorpions, or with the fat of a Gote and of a Hen. ⁂ A profitable booke, 1569

From An hospitall for the diseased wherein are to bee founde moste excellent and approued

medicines, as well emplasters of speciall vertue, as also notable potions or drinkes, and other

comfortable receptes, bothe for the restitution and the preseruation of bodily healthe: by T.C., 1579:

A medicine for burnyng and skaldyng. TAke blacke Sope, or graie: Sope, and laie it imme|diatly to your sore. ⁂ An hospitall for the diseased, 1579


31

For burnyng or skaldyng. TAke a good handefull of Auans, and as muche of Sheepes doung, and so frie them in Maie butter, and straine it, and annoint the place with the same cold, twice a daie, and annoint it first with graie or blacke Sope, and it will helpe, the oyntment must be spreade vpon a Fla|xen clout, if you can get it. ⁂ An hospitall for the diseased, 1579

For the stone, or stoppyng of the water. TAke a pinte of white Wine, and therewith make a Posset, then take all the curdes awaie, and putte into the Posset Ale, twoo pennie weight of the scrapyng of white Sope, and boile it, then drinke it as warme as you can. ⁂ An hospitall, 1579 To prouoke Vrine. TAke a quantitie of blacke Sope, and Englishe Saf|from, and temper theim together colde, and laye it colde vpon your Nauell, beeyng spread vpon a broad pa|per, or redde Leather, and then laye vpon it linnen clothe of tenne or twelue foldes hotte, and roule you with a to|well, and so lye doune vpon your bedde warme, and it wil make you pisse within an hower. ⁂ An hospitall for the diseased, 1579

A medicine for the yellowe Iaunders. TAke harde spanish Sope, a little stale Ale in a cuppe. and rubbe the Sope against the cuppe bottome till the Ale be white, and shaue in Iuerie, and let the patient drinke thereof first and last till he be hole. ⁂ An hospitall for the diseased, 1579 A true medicine for the piles. TAke blacke Woolle and blacke Sope, and binde it thereto.

From The mirrour or glasse of health. Necessary and needefull for euery person to looke in, that

will keepe their bodye from the sickenesse of the pestylence, and it sheweth how the planets do

reygne euery hower of the day and nyght, wyth the natures and expositions of the xii. signes,

deuyded by the twelue months of the yeare. And sheweth the remedyes for dyuers infirmyties and

diseases that hurteth the body of man, by Thomas Moulton, 1580 (an update from 1547):

For to doe away a wen. Cap. xcvi. Take and bynde fast the Wenne, then take verdigrece, sulphur, Sope, oyle of egges, alam, and hony, & tem|per them togither, and lay it thereto, and it shall doe away the wenne, and heale it without doubt. ⁂ The mirrour or glasse of health, 1580 For the blacke Iaundes. Ca. cvi. Take genciana, long pepper, Cala|mus, aromaticus, auencis, licores, re|syns of coraunce, white sope of spayn of euerich three .i. and .ii. sponefull of mustard, boyle all these in a quarte of wyne till the thyrde parte be wasted, and let the pacient drink it. ⁂ The mirrour or glasse of health, 1580

From A short discours of the excellent doctour and knight, maister Leonardo Phiorauanti

Bolognese vppon chirurgerie VVith a declaration of many thinges, necessarie to be knowne, neuer

written before in this order: whervnto is added a number of notable secretes, found out by the saide

author, by Leonardo Fioravanti, 1580:

A meruailous Sope that helpeth those which cannot spyt but with great paine.

THis composition is called Saponea nostra, bicause it is made of Sope, but not of that Sope the whiche is in the Apothicaries shopes in Venice, but this is a confection, the which being eat euery morning a little quantitie, it helpeth those that spit with paine, it ope|neth the stomacke,


32

and breaketh that euil matter con|teyned therein, and casteth it forth at the mouth with the spyttle, and so leaueth the pacient wel disposed and merry, and the order to make it is thus. Rec. White Venice Sope, and beate it in powder, {ounce}.1. pure Maisticke 2. drams, Sinamon, Licores, ana, one drame, fine Sugar as much as wil suffise to make it in tables according to art, yt which are most strange, neuerthelesse meruaile not there at for I will shewe the reason, so that euery one shalbe satisfied. Yée shal vnderstande that the first ingredience be|ing the Sope, is made with the Lye of Soda and Cal|kes, the which thinges doe drye and mundifie al sorts of Vlcere Sordide, and cooleth them: Also there in is 58 Oyle Olyfe, the which is one of the most excellentest licours in the worlde, for this of it selfe is able to cut that matter from the stomacke, and to mundifie it, than in this compounde there is Masticke, the whiche is most excellent for the stomacke, and draweth downe from the head, than the lycoures, and Sinamon are a|paratiue & comforteth the stomacke, so that all these being mixed together, of force it must helpe against these infirmities of the breast, and the quantitie therof is from .2. drams to halfe ounce. ⁂ A short discours, 1580 An excellent sope for Scabbes and Itche.

TAke white Sope halfe a di. and steepe it in sufficient Rose water, til it be wel soked, then take two dragmes of Mercury Subblimed, disolue it in a little Rose wa|ter, labour the Sope and the Rose Water well togeather, and afterwarde put in it a little Muske or Ciuet, and keep it. This is singuler to cure a great Scabbe or Itche without perrill. ⁂ A short discours, 1580 Against the fellon and Vncomes.

TAKE an ounce of Sage, of Rewe the waighte of the Sage in Senegreene, washe these together and shake out the wa|ter, drye them cleane with a cloth, and chop them very small, then take sower Leauen the bignesse of a Tennis ball, blacke Sope a spoonefull, two spoonefulles of Tarre, stampe it in a woodden dishe with a pestell of Wood, laye the same morning and Eue|ning vnto it an inche thicke. ⁂ A short discours of the excellent doctour and knight, 1580

From A rich store-house or treasury for the diseased. Wherein, are many approued medicines for

diuers and sundry diseases, which haue been long hidden, and not come to light before this time.

Now set foorth for the great benefit and comfort of the poorer sort of people that are not of abilitie

to go to the physitions, by A. T., 1596:

Cap. 97. An other for the same.

TAKE red Sage, Rue, and Housloeke of ech of them an ounce, wash them altogether, and drye out the water, with a cleane cloth, and choppe them very small, then take the quantitie of a Tennis ball of sower Leuen, & two spoonefulls of Tarre, and a spoonefull of blacke sope, then stampe them altogether in a woodden Dish, with a Pestle of wood, and make a Plaister of it, and lay it an Inche thicke vppon a peece of linnen cloth, or else vpon a peece of leather, and euery Morning & Euening, apply it to the sore, and this will both drawe it and heale it. This is also good for any ma+ner of Byle Fellyn or vncome. ⁂ A rich store-house or treasury, 1596

Cap. 111. verie good medicine to cause one to pisse that cannot.

TAke a verye good quantitie of the best English Saf|fron, that you can possiblye get, and beate it into fine powder, and then take the like quantitie of pure Black Sope, and mingle them both verie well together, and spreade them vppon the fleshye side of a peece of fine Sheepes leather,


33

and then laye it vpon the Nauill of the partie greeued, and it will procure Vrine within one houre, or a little more. Probatum est per I. I. ⁂ A rich store-house or treasury, 1596

From A closet for ladies and gentlevvomen, or, The art of preseruing, conseruing, and

candying. Also diuers soueraigne medicines and salues, for sundry diseases, 1608:

A medicine for a bruse. TAke a quantitie of stone pitch and as much gray sope, and beat the pitch finely to powder, and boyle them together with stirring vntil it be boyled, then take it off the fire and 114 let it coole, and then spred it vpon a cloth and lay it to the griefe, it must not be through colde, for then it will not spred, and if one doe not heale it, then lay on another cloth spred with the same. ⁂ A closet for ladies and gentlevvomen, 1608

Veterinarian, a small selection. From The seconde part of the Secretes of Master Alexis of Piemont by hym collected out of diuers



To heale and cure Horses of the Skabbe.

FIrst you must let him blood, then take Brim|stone, Quicksiluer, Hony, liquide Pitch, Salt, the iuice of Hemlocke, Vinaigre, Alome, Heles+bore, softe Sope, Oile, Sutt of a Chimney, Hogges dong, and Lime, and mingle al togither, and anoint the place with it where the Skabbe is, and within fewe daies he shal be healed and cleane. ⁂ The seconde Alexis, 1560

From Bulleins bulwarke of defence, soarenesse, and vvoundes that doe dayly assaulte mankinde:

which bulwarke is kept with Hilarius the gardener, [and] Health the phisicion, with the chirurgian,

to helpe the wounded soldiours. Gathered and practised from the most worthy learned, both olde

and new: to the great comfort of mankinde by William Bullein, 1579:

But also Tarre, grease and French Sope, tempered together, is good to anoynt skabbed Sheepe, horse. &c. wyth a tent of Baken and Tarre, I haue healed the Fistula often times: and thus I do end of Tarre. ⁂ Bulleins bulwarke of defence, 1579

From The widowes treasure plentifully furnished plentifully furnished with sundry precious and

approoued secretes in phisicke and chirurgery for the health and pleasure of mankinde : hereunto

are adioyned, sundry pretie practises and conclusions of cookerie : with many profitable and

holesome medicines for sundrie diseases in cattell, by John Partridge, 1588:

IF your Horsse be Lousie about the eares, necke or tayle or any other parte of his bodye: take the beste Sope you may haue a pound, and halfe a pound of quicke Siluer, mortified with Aqua vitae, and with this ointment you shall destroy them. ⁂ The widowes treasure, 1588

IF he be scabbye let him be let blood, and afterwarde with this ointement let him be annoynted where the scabbes are. Take Soot of the Chimneye, soft Sope, the iuice of Hemlockes and Vineger, Quickesiluer, liquid Pitche and honye, and mingle them till they come to be an Ointment. Kill the Mercurie with fasting Spittle. ⁂ The widowes treasure, 1588


34


35

Other Uses

Scribal From Book of the Staff of Scribes by al-Muizz ibn Badis, ca. 1025:

Another preparation with which gall ink is removed from parchment.

Water of soap is mixed with a like amount of vinegar. It is distilled. When it is written over the letters, then it removes the ink from paper and parchment. Like that is the water of the distilled onion with water of the distilled soap. The operation is conducted in the same manner. ⁂ Book

of the Staff of Scribes, ca. 1025 From The seconde part of the Secretes of Master Alexis of Piemont by hym collected out of diuers



To take out a deuise made in a mould, with blacke Sope.

TAke a pounde of blacke washinge Sope, with strong lie, and seeth it vntill it be diminished of two thirdendeales, and keepe it so, but whan you will drawe out the deuise from the naturall, and that you haue not leiser to do it, do thus. Take of the saide Sope soden, and Sope ouer your Paper hand|somely, then laie it vpo~ the deuise or picture that you will drawe out, and presse it softly with your hande, and holde it faste, & the moulde wil take all the deuise: so that you maie drawe it at your pleasure and ease in another maner: […]. ⁂ The seconde Alexis, 1560

Dyeing From A Profitable Booke declaring diuers approoued Remedies, to take out spots and staines in

Silkes, Veluets, Linnen and Woollen Clothes: With diuers Colours how to die Veluets and Silkes,

Linnenn and Woollen, Fustian and Thread: Also to dresse Leather, and to colour Felles. How to

guild, graue, sowder, and Vernish. And to harden and make soft Yron and Steele. Verie necessarie

for all men, specially for those which haue or shall haue any doing therein: with a perfect Table

hereunto, to finde all things readie, not the like reuealed in English heretofore, by Thomas Purfoot, 1588:

To die a Crimson colour.

Scrape hard sope, and so melt in common water, and put your silke in a linnen or thin canuasse bag, and so put it into the kettle to the soped water, and let it boile softly halfe an hour space, but stir it oft for burning, then wash it in salt water first, and after in fresh water, for each pound of silk, take a li. or more of Allom, laide sufficient in colde water, & therein put your silk without your bag, and let it rest therein viii houres, then take and wash it in fresh water, then wring it, & put it in the panne to the crimsine colour, being wel stampt & cleane, tak 4 ounces, and boyle it with so much water as will couer your silke foure fingers aboue the water, & to each pound of crimsine colour, put too three ounces of galles in fine pouder, or in steed thereof yee may put in halfe an ounce of arsnick, which is not very wholesome because of the fume, nor


36

the water thereof, and when it boyleth put in your silk as aforeprepared, and there let it boyle a quarter of an houre then wring it a little, and drye it in the shade, and so it will bee faire. ⁂ A

Profitable Booke, 1588

Pesticides From T bouck va wondre, anonymous, 1513:

74. To make a salve, that kills the wall lice [bedbugs] which are in a bed.

Take mercury, and do this in a dish with a little black soap, and with the finger mix it until the mercury is completely incorporated into mentioned soap, after that add as many other soaps as you like, then wipe the bed with this soap, and you do this to be sure all the wall lice will die, and smother her eggs, so they will never come back again. ⁂ T bouck va wondre, 1513 77. To kill the lice and the nits.

Take black soap, one ounce and a half, broken [rock] alum, a half dragme, living sulfur [naturally found sulfur] also broken, carefully mix all these things together, and bring it into the manner of a salve, with which is wiped the place where the lice are, and you’ll kill all the nits, it is well proved. ⁂ T bouck va wondre, 1513

A sidenote: The Fyrst Boke of the Introduction of Knowledge, A Dyetary of Health,

Barnes in the Defense of the Berde by Andrew Boorde; the Products of Spain as stated in the Libel of 1436:

. . . fygues, raysyns, wyne bastarde, and dates;

And lycorys, Syvyle oyle, and grayne,

Whyte Castelle sope, and wax, is not in vayne;

Iren, wolle, wadmole ; gotefel, kydefel, also,—

fl'or poynt-makers fulle nedefulle be the two ;—

Saffron, quiksilver (wheche arne Spaynes marchandy)

Is into filaundres shypped fulle craftyle,

Unto Bruges, as to here staple fayre,

The haven of Sluse here havene for here repayre,

Wheche' is cleped Swyn ; thaire shyppes gydynge

Where many wessell and fayre arne abydynge.

T. Wright’s Political Songs, ii. 160.


37

Toiletry

From the Trotula, 12th century, comes this tip On Adornment of Women’s Faces: [272] After beautifying the hair, the face ought to be adorned, [because] if its adornment is done

beautifully, it embellishes even ugly women. The woman will adorn herself in this manner. First of

all, let her wash her face very well with French soap and with warm water, and with a straining of

bran let her wash herself in the bath. Afterwards take oil of tartar and, having first dried her face,

let her annoint it.

From Manual de mujeres by Anonymous, 16th CE:

Soap for the face.

Two ounces of white soap scalded in water boiling within a cloth and strained through the cloth; and a cuarto [a copper coin, worth four maravedís] of mastic, and a half cuarto of southernwood resin, and a cuarto of borax and one ounce of white sugar. Grind all these things, and pass them through a sieve, mix them into a paste with the soap and put it in little boat-shaped lumps, and put in each lump a drop of ros de bota. [bottled rose water?] ⁂ Manual de mujeres, 16th CE Soap for the hands.

One ounce of gourd seeds, and another one (ounce) of cleaned melon seeds, and another ounce of radish seeds. Mix everything together with two ounces of soap from Cyprus and mash it with honey and make it into balls. ⁂ Manual de mujeres, 16th CE Soap for the hands.

Take a pound of grated Valencian soap and put it bind in a thick cloth. And put it in a pot of boiling water, and cook it there until it's turned blue. And while it is cooking, take an escudilla [a small hemispherical cup used to measure liquid volume] of it, and another of honey, and another of cow's bile, and half the juice of a lily, and an escudilla of vinegar. And put it all together in a cook-pot, and cook it until it is thick, always stirring it. And if you want to make them into little balls, let it cook until it is hard. ⁂ Manual de mujeres, 16th CE Soap for the head.

Three fourths of grated soap, two (fourths of) cow bile, an escudilla [a small hemispherical cup used to measure liquid volume] of honey, another escudilla of lye, two maravedís [a coin] of rough cumin, two (maravedís) of bastard saffron (that is, safflower), two (maravedís) of orpiment, two (maravedís) of golden ginger, two (maravedís) of barberry: grind all these things, and together with the soap and lye in a pan, and mix everything together well. And put it where it can get sun and rest and leave it until it is stiff, taking care to stir it every day. And once it is stiff, wet your hand in lye, making it into little cakes and return them to the sun, and leave them until they have become stiff. And as they are stiff, keep them and wash with them. ⁂ Manual de

mujeres, 16th CE


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Mudas for the hands.

Take an escudilla [a small hemispherical cup used to measure liquid volume] of grape verjuice, and another of cow's bile, and half a cup of grated soap, and three ounces of seed oil, and another three (ounces) of opium poppies, and an ounce and half of bitter almond oil, and an ounce of aceite de mata, and a little well-ground verditer, and a little cuttlebone. Bring it together in a vessel, and put it to the fire until the soap disintegrates. And when it has disintegrated, put it in a glass jug, and let it cure in the sun for nine days, stirring it every day two or three times so it does not settle. And when it has cured, put it on the hands. And the more you can put on the hands without washing the better it is. ⁂ Manual de mujeres, 16th CE Musk-scented soap.

Take a half ounce of calamita storax, and an ounce of benzoin, and a quarter ounce of liquid storax and a quarter ounce of sallow sandalwood. All this pulverized and well re-soaked in musk-scented water, mix together with a half pound of white soap and with one ounce of deer marrow. And cut everything up very well, sprinkling it with musk-scented water, and you will cut it up until it has drunk one ounce of musk-scented water. And then you will bring together with this the weight of a dinero [a silver coin] of amber, and a grain of musk dissolved in a little of this water. And you will mix this very well in a stone mortar in the by whipping. ⁂ Manual

de mujeres, 16th CE Bran for the hands.

Take half a celemín [half a peck] of very refined bran, one escudilla [a small hemispherical cup used to measure liquid volume] of French soap. Mix everything together and knead it with honey. And make little loaves and let them dry in the sun. ⁂ Manual de mujeres, 16th CE Lye for the head.

Half a celemín [half a peck] of sifted vine-shoot ash, and an almozada of the ash of Spanish broom. Put a pot of river water or fountain water to the fire and, once it is boiling, throw that ash inside, and leave it to boil twice, and then separate it and leave it to rest until it is clear. And take as much of that lye as an azumbre [2 liters], and get out a glass jug, and put in it seven ounces of white burned argol and lid the jug. Grate an ounce and a half of Valencian soap and throw it inside, and stir it until the lees separate. And comb or skim the hair with this lye in the sun, and then wash with other lye. And when it is combed it is with sesame oil. ⁂ Manual de

mujeres, 16th CE Lye to turn hair blond

Take four celemines [half a peck] of vine-shoot ash, and one pound of ash of the lees of white wine. And add in a pot of rainwater, and put it over a fire that boils. And when it boils, take it off the fire and leave it to sit. And as it is sitting, add a flask of that lye, and put with it licorice and French soap, and put it to the fire that boils. And skim the head with this lye. And wash with the other from the pot, or if not, it is the lye to wash the vine-root ash and elm ash. And if you want to the hair to grow quickly, throw in with those other ashes, ashes from ivy roots. ⁂ Manual de mujeres, 16th CE


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Mudas for the hands

Take an escudilla [a small hemispherical cup used to measure liquid volume] of the juice of the roots of cardinal lily, and an ounce and a half of French soap, and as much fresh unsalted butter as two eggs. Cook everything together in a pot until it is thick. And rub it on your hands, twice every day, once in the morning and once at night. And then bring it on your hands for fifteen days without washing them, always wearing gloves on your hands. ⁂ Manual de mujeres, 16th CE

From Een nieuwe tractaet / ghenaemt dat Batement van recepten / inhoudende drye

deelen van Recepten (likely translated in Dutch and reprinted from the 1525 Venetian Opera nuova

intitolata Dificio di recette), 1549:

50. To make clean hair.

Take wood of vaele or ivy, and take off the outer bark, absolutely, and make it into ash. Then take vineyard water about a menglele or kuipje, make lye with that, then wash the head with it very well and dry in the sun. And when it is halfway dry, take white soap lathered up with the mentioned lye, about a half dish full, and let the soap be thin like honey. Then make your hand wet in that soap, and rub it into the hair, let it dry, then rub the hair again to three to four more times, drying in between as above, do that twice a week, and you will have clean hair again. ⁂ dat Batement, 1549 132. To make soap roseat for containers.

Take soap soaked in rosewater many times, then take rose buds of the Provence cut very small. And every day put the mentioned cut up roses with the soap in the sun, and you should do that for four days. Then, if you want to put it in containers or in clean small vats, take one ounce and a half powder of gillyflowers, and a fourth part of iris of Florence, well bruised and rubbed with a little benzoin. Then you should mix all this with the soap; know that to each pound of soap you have a pound and a half of roses, and the manner it is done with this soap, they have to be freshly cut, and add rosewater occasionally, and mix and stir steadily. ⁂ dat Batement van

recepten, 1549 133. To make gillyflower [cloves] soap.

Take a pound of soap, put it to soak in rosewater three days in the sun, and if you want to make soap, take an ounce and a half gillyflowers [this might mean the herb Dianthus] well crushed, and half of these same nagelen [nails, of cloves] should you put into the soap, and mix very well. With the other half you do as follows. Take a clean pot with rosewater, and cook it over the fire, and when it starts to boil, add the rest of the gillyflower [cloves] powder, and take the pot off the fire, and cover it well until the bubbles seized, and that the water is luke warm, then stir with wood, and also stir, mixing with the soap. And if you would like add a little benzoin, which you should do, also you should put the soap in a container, and it shall take on a good scent. ⁂ dat Batement van recepten, 1549 139. Soap for barbers for little cost.

Take powder of Spanish soap, or damask soap, so much as you like and want, and cut it in small pieces, and let it soak in rosewater. Then take iris of Florence powdered, and nagelen [nails, or


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cloves] well crushed, and incorporate well, and make thereof balls, of the size you like, then you have good soap to wash the head and the beard. ⁂ dat Batement van recepten, 1549

From The Elixirs of Nostradamus, 1552:

How to make an aromatic soap which makes the hands white and soft and which has a

sweet and pleasant perfume.

Take some yew root, scrape it without washing it and dry it in the shade. Next, pulverize it and take four ounces of it, one ounce of wheat flour, six dracms of ground pine-nut kernels, two ounces of almond kernels from which the oil has been well pressed, one ounce and a half of clean bitter-orange pips, two ounces each of oil of tartar and sweet almond oil and a half drachm of musk. Grind these up into the finest possible powder and for every ounce of this powder add half an ounce of Florentine violet roots. Next take a further half pound of yew root and let it soak overnight in good-quality rose-water or bitter-orange blossom-water. Squeeze the water and roots thoroughly and knead the exuded slime with the other ingredients. Add the musk and make the mixture into globes or round balls. Dry them and when you want to use them, take one in your hand, pour water over it and rub your hands with it and they will become white and tender and soft. Gaetan soap, however, is excluded, though others do use it, for although it whitens the hands, it also makes them rough and dry or chapped, because it is made from a strong, sharp lye, namely from the chalk of ordinary silica ashes, from which glass has been made, and the ashes of burnet tartar. Gaetan soap has, however, been made from chalk and burnt tartar for a very long while and, although that soap is prepared from this lye and from ordinary olive oil, it still makes the hands very rough. Our composition for soap, however, is very gentle and pleasant, for only mild substances are used in it and even if the hands are already hard, after using it two or three times they will become as gentle and soft as if they were the hands of a young girl of ten. (Boeser) ⁂ The Elixirs of Nostradamus, 1552

From The Notandissimi Secreti de l’Arte Profumatoria. A FARE Ogli, acque, paste, balle,

moscardini, uccelletti [little bird] paternostri, e tutte l’arte in iera come si ricerca, si ne le citta di

Napoli del Reame, come in Roma, e quivi in Venetia nuova mente posti in luce, 1555: Several of the soap recipes in the Notandissimi include the ingredient ‘garofil’ (spelled in several ways). The 1611 Italian to English Florio dictionary gives two options: gilliflower (carnation, Dianthus caryphyllus) and cloves (Syzygium aromaticum), without giving explanation when which one would be preferred. Recipe comparisons seem to indicate that when powdered or crushed gilliflower (as a spice) is called for cloves are likely meant (soap recipes), and when fresh or dried gilliflower (as an herb) is called for carnation is likely meant (brewing recipes). Therefore I choose to translate ‘garofil’ &c. to cloves in the context of soap recipes.

To make balls of soap scented, & excellent.

Have one once of white Damascus soap, shave well with a carpenter’s plane or similar, until it is gone, then use a mortar, stamp until small, then use a vial with a little rose water, with a little cinnamon cut small, that has a good smell, & mix with the aforementioned soap paste, you will heat above the central fire until it feels a little hot. Then use the little mortar and grind small one grain of musk, & one grain of ambergris, one grain of civet, and grind it well, remove the remains with rosewater, and mingle well with these aforementioned scents, afterwards put the


41

mixture in a vial. And then take the mentioned soap, which is in the mortar and add unto this soap the mentioned mixture gradually well, and highlight with this gum-like soap mixture when washing to go to bed, & leave the remnants undisturbed all night, and continue this without delay for five or else six times. ⁂ The Notandissimi Secreti de l’Arte Profumatoria, 1555

To make gentle soap tablets scented as much as possible.

Have two pounds white soap, & white lead two ounces, hirios [orris root] one ounce, musk four grains, before you pound the soap very thin in a mortar, & then take rosewater & combine into small balles, & and it will be perfect. ⁂ The Notandissimi Secreti de l’Arte Profumatoria, 1555 To give musk to soap.

Take the aforementioned soap two pounds, & place it in a earthen bowl covered with glass, well polished [waterproofed], with very fine rosewater, until it is softened, stir well with a piece of wood, and leave it be in the sun, stirring well, and often, until it becomes hard; for rosewater soap, & so for ten days or more, the more it it is kept in the sun, the better. Then for fine musk toilet soap, & that may be dissolved, as mentioned here six caratti, civet powder four caratti, cinnamon well thinned a quarter and a half, stir everything together well in the basin with soap, and then quickly put all in the glass jar, also you could combine a quarter of powder of damaschine roses to make it even more sweet, if the glass vessel is not full with the drip drops of the musk solution as spoken above, to do it perfect, in another way it also can be done. ⁂ The

Notandissimi, 1555 To give other scent to soap as previously mentioned.

Take a soap loaf that is mixed with rose water, & mingle with oil of benzoin, storax, and of naranze [naranzi; sweet orange, Citrus aurantium], with the strength that you do like, and let it mingle well in the sun, & it will do that. Also you can give it fragrance with other diverse scents like sandali citrini [yellow saunders wood], magalepi [Prumus mahaleb], cinnamon, garofil [cloves], hirios [orris root], cipri [galingale, Cyperus longus], & change the things he wants, according to the quality, & strength desired, & that also matches the taste of the person whom likes that kind of scent to those of another; but the best is flowers de naranzi, or fresh cedar, which is a penny: and crush them in a mortar with the soap, leave it in the sun & mixed with two pennies of rosewater, & pound well together, & then put it in its small earthen pot with a glass covering [lid] & it shall be spoken of very well, I could do in different colors as there are directions [instructions] here after reading [later in text]. ⁂ The Notandissimi, 1555 Soap to put in the ointment box, or else in medicine jars.

Take lye of soap, that is to say of the second water, & one pitcher or rather else a drinking pot, campfor one soldi, and one soldi of liquid storax, & mix in the mentioned lye, then heat a kettle or else baking pan with one pound or else two of beef fat, cut into tiny pieces, & strain, & and then mix up as it pleases you, & if the liquid is too weak [either strength of lye or density of mixture] mix in one scoop of grainy soap: then when it rises take from the heat stirring constantly for a long time until it comes together, when it is time you can to fill your vessel or else jar, or ointment box, & this makes the skin luster, smoothened, unspotted, & white, & so much more beautiful than you can say, if with that you will wash. ⁂ The Notandissimi, 1555


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Soap balls of the barbers of Florence.

Take gaetan soap as you know, let it dry in the sun, so that it can be sieved into small pieces, & have garofali [cloves], hirios [orris root], oldano [francinsence] as you think, for these things divide the small powder, & per eight pounds of soap mentioned add ten ounces, or eight, of this spice mixture, so that every three pounds of spice is part of fifteen pounds of soap, & with rosewater, & a little musk, and pound well, & incorporate everything as told, & have your forms, to make soap balls, & generally gentle, & princely. ⁂ The Notandissimi, 1555 Musk soap.

Take musk as much as you think, & grind small, & add a little rosewater, & mix together, & heat in a pot or earthen meat pot if it has a glass cover, & as hot as it will and add the mentioned soap, which is powdered, as stated above, and as this mixture has come back down, & turns well, then place it in a vessel, & add put in pure musk, & mix with an sharp stick, & [cover] well with paper as much as a pail so much more the better. ⁂ The Notandissimi, 1555

Another soap with civet.

Take chopped soap like the previously mentioned musk soap, let it stand in the sun with rosewater, put in a trio of civet, & mix well, & as needed you can mix the previously mentioned powder in dissolved musk, & put into the soap, & [cover] the vessel up. ⁂ Notandissimi, 1555 Soap with benzoin.

Take soap that has been in the sun, and purged with a little oil of benzoin, & mix, you can also use oil of storax or oldano [frankincence], or another kind of scent you like, & and make your balls or wash-balls. ⁂ The Notandissimi Secreti de l’Arte Profumatoria, 1555 Soap with roses.

Take soap crumbled very small, which is sprinkled with rosewater, that was in the sun, & purged so that is does not smell anymore of soap, & then take fresh roses, and crush them well, and stir together, and make round bullets with said soap, & rose, and save in a vase of glass, & this is your pink soap, and so you can do with other scents, this rule serves all naturally, & intellectual experts willingly delight of this art. ⁂ The Notandissimi, 1555 Soap in another good way, & beautiful.

Take Gaetan soap, & be it shaved like narea [?] or instead cooked six pounds, black soap half a pound, & do as I say above, & stay far ahead of peers. ⁂ The Notandissimi, 1555 Ingredients other than soap.

Take shaved Gaetan soap left overs, and powders which shall weigh 4 pounds. Orris root 6 ounce, Frankincence 2 ounce, Storax calamita 1 ounce, Liquid storax half ounce, Red Rose 1 ounce, Galingale powder 3 ounce, Musk 6 grains. And with rosewater as is highlighted above. ⁂ The Notandissimi Secreti de l’Arte Profumatoria, 1555

Ingredients in another way.

Take Gettano soap shaved, & in powder 8 pounds. Frankincence 4 ounce, Cloves 6 ounce, Orris root 2 ounce, Liquid storax 2 ounce, Musk half a dragme. Make powder, & moisten with


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rosewater, and grind in a mortar of hot lead, & a hot iron pestle, & make balles or wash-balls, out of your way. ⁂ The Notandissimi Secreti de l’Arte Profumatoria, 1555 Fine soap.

Take damaschino soap [radato], & musky rose water, white hirios [orris root] a third part, & liquid storax, & put it all together, & decorate your wash-balls as you prefer, or with stamps, & as per your opinion, and let it harden in the shade. ⁂ The Notandissimi, 1555




Vvhite musked Sope. TAke Sope scraped or grated, as much as you will the whiche (when ye haue well stieped and tempered in rose water) leaue it eight dais in the sunne: Than you shall adde to it an vnce of the water or milk of Macaleb, twelue graines of Muske, and sixe graines of Ciuet, and reducinge all the whole into the fourme and maner of harde past, you shall make therof very ex|cellent balles. ⁂ The secretes of the reuerende Maister Alexis of Piemount, 1558 Another kinde of odoriferous white Sope.

TAke Venise Sope of the eldest you can finde, the whiche you shall cutte or scrape with a knife, and sette it three dayes in the Sonne: And after ha|uinge well brayed it, you shal dissolue it in a vessell lea|ded within, with a pounde of good rose water, lettinge it boyle with a small fire, than you shall put to it of the roote of Iris, called Ireos, beaten into poulder .iiij. vnces, Amylum sixe vnces, whyte Sandale two vnces, Storax liquida an vnce, Oyle of Spike an vnce, and sturringe it alwayes with a sticke, ye shall afterwarde let it coole againe. And finally make balles of it, euen as you wil ⁂ The secretes of the reuerende Maister Alexis of Piemount, 1558 Damaske parfume. TAke fyne Muske foure gaynes, Cyuet two gray|nes, Ambergris, fine Sugre, of eche of them foure graynes, Bengewine a grayne, of fatte Storax ca|lamita three graines, lignum Aloes twoo graines: beate them well into poulder, and putte all together in a litle parfuminge panne, powre into it as muche Rose wa|ter, or the water of the flowres of Orenges, Citrons, and Lemons, all together, as will bee twoo fingers highe aboue the other drooges, in makinge vnder it a small fier that it maye not boyle, and when the water is consumed, you shall powre in other: and hauing con|tinued thus doinge a certaine number of daies, you shall haue an excellent Sope. ⁂ The secretes of the reuerende Maister Alexis of Piemount, 1558

To make Damaskine sope musked.

TAke a pounde of the best Sope you can gette, and after hauing grated or skraped it verie smal, take fine Synamom, Nutmegges, Storax calamita, of 50 eche of them an vnce, lignum Aloes two dragmes, Benge|wine perfite and thorowlye made two vnces, the poul|der of Viollettes an vnce. Hauing beaten well to poul|der all these foresaied thinges, you shal adde vnto them a dragme of the poulder of Cypres, a lytle Muske, and Ciuet: then steepe and temper it in Rose water, and af|ter leaue it fourtie daies in the Sunne, in mouing and sturring it often times. Than make balles of it, or ly|tle rounde loues, the whiche you muste keepe in boxes of woode with cotton, wolle or bombase. ⁂ The secretes of the reuerende Maister Alexis of Piemount, 1558


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To make the sayde Sope musked. TAke fine Muske as muche as you liste, beate it well in a brasen morter, putting to it Rose water some|what 53 warme, and hauinge mixed them well together, put them in the vessell where youre Sope is, mengling them well together, and let them stande a while, and than fill litle boxes with it at your pleasure. ⁂ The Alexis, 1558 A very exquisyte sope, made of diuers thinges.

TAke Aluminis catini thre vnces, quicke lyme one part stronge lye that will beare an egge swimminge be|twene two waters, thre pottels, a pot of commun oyle: mengle all well together, puttinge to it the white of an Egge well beaten, and a dysshefull of the meale or floure of Amylum, and an vnce of Romayne Vitrioll, 55 or redde leade well beaten into poulder, and mixe it continuallye for the space of three houres, then lette it stande, by the space of a daye, and it will bee righte and perfite. Finallye, take it oute, and cutte it in pieces: af|ter sette it to drie twoo daies, in the wynde, but not in the sunne. Occupie alwaies of this sope, when you will washe youre head, for it is verie holsome, and maketh faier heare. ⁂ The Alexis, 1558 Sope with Cyuet. TAke of the saied Sope as muche as you wyll, and set it a while in the Sunne in Rose water, putting to it the poulder of Cyuette, and mixinge it well. And if you adde to it also Muske, it will bee the better, so that the Muske haue been before steeped and tempered in rose water. ⁂ The Alexis, 1558 Sope with diuers sweete and excellent oyles.

TAke of the foresaied Sope, whiche hath stande a while in the Sunne in Rose wa|ter, and put to it a lytle of the oyle of Ben|gewine, or of some other odoriferous oyle, and mixe it well: but you muste putte in of the oyles reasonablie, neither to muche nor to lyttle, but with discretion, accordinge to the quantitie of the Sope. ⁂ The Alexis, 1558 Sope rosat. TAke freshe and recent roses wel stamped, and in|corporated them with the said Sope, as before, the whiche you maye also dode at youre pleasure of all other sortes of flowres. ⁂ The Alexis, 1558 VVhite Sope of a good sauour and odour.

HAuing cutte, after the maner of Damasco, in small pieces the oldest Sope that is possible to bee founde, you shall laye it abrode vpon a ta|ble, in a place where it maye drie, than hauinge lefte it there, the space of eyght and or .x. dayes, you must after warde stampe it lightlye or slenderlye, and make ther|of poulder: and the same being sifted, you shal adde to it foure vnces of Ireos, vppon tenne pounde of the sayed poulder, white Sandall three vnces, two vnces of Ma|caleb, an vnce of the meale or flowre of Amylum and all well beaten into poulder, you shall mixe it with tenne pounde of the poulder of the aforesaide Sope: then all beinge ioyned together, you shall putte it in a morter, with an vnce of Storax liquida and a walnut shelfull of the oyle of Spike, and hauinge well stamped it altoge|ther, it shall bee made. Then afterwarde make balles or square [...]akes of it, as you wyll, with the meale or flowre of Amylum: then drie in the shadowe, and keepe them, for it is a thinge verie excellent. ⁂ The Alexis, 1558

Perfect sope. TAke syxe graynes of Muske tempered and stee|ped in good Rose water, foure graines of Ciuet, reduced and beaten into poulder, and mingle them with the saied Sope, but the


45

tempered or steeped Muske, muste bee hote, and by this meanes you shall haue a verie perfect Sope. ⁂ The Alexis, 1558 VVhole and massy blacke sope.

TAke tenne pounde of the saied poulder of Sope well sifted, cloues foure vnces, of good Mace twoo vnces, damaske Macaleb, Cyperus whiche the Apoticaries call Iuncus odoratus, Sandali Ci|trini, Storax liquida, of eche of theym an vnce, sweete oyle as muche as shall suffise: and hauing stamped that whiche oughte to bee stamped, make of it as is aboue saied. But if you will haue it more singuler, putte to it Muske tempered in Rose water, as afore, with a lytle Ciuet, after incorporate well all together, and make thereof balles or square cakes, or hartes, or suche other formes, as you luste to muke youre selfe: then dry them in the shadowe: and so shall you finde them of a singu|ler 56 good odour and sauour. ⁂ The Alexis, 1558

From Magia Naturalis (Natural Magick) by John Baptiste Porta, 1558:

"A Lye to dye the hair."

Thus, put Barley Straw into an earthen pot with a great mouth, Feny-Graec. and wild Cumin, mingle between them, Quicklime and Tobacco, made into powder. Then put them upon the Straw before mentioned, and pour on the powders again, I mean by course, one under, the other over, till the whole vessel be full. And when they are thrust close, pour on cold water, and let them stand a whole day. Then open a hole at the bottom, and let the Lye run forth, and with Soap use it for your hair. ⁂ Magia Naturalis, 1558 I shall teach you, "Another."

To five glasses of Fountain water, add Alome-Foeces, one ounce, Soap, three ounces, Barley Straw, one handful. Let them boil in earthen pots, till two thirds be boiled away. Then let it settle. Strain the water with the ashes, adding to every glass of water, pure Honey one ounce. Set it up for your use. ⁂ Magia Naturalis, 1558

The book includes a Chapter XVI titled “The Best Soaps for Women”. Unfortunately this chapter is about facial waters, as indicated by the chapter’s introduction “I have shown in particulars how you might procure whiteness, luster, and softness to the face. Now shall I speak of waters made of these, that will at the same time make, if it be first rubbed clean, the face white, clear, ruddy, & soft.”, and not about true soaps. ⁂ Magia Naturalis, 1558 From The seconde part of the Secretes of Master Alexis of Piemont by hym collected out of diuers



To make the handes white.

TAke an Oxe gall, and take halfe a sponefull of it in the ing[...]ning with wel water, and washe your handes with this little of the gall, and they will become moist, softe, and very white. Take also Sope, and purge it wel, than take of the roote of Iris, and dry it in an ouen and make pouder of it, the whiche you shall mixe with the Sope well purged and so washe your handes withal, and they wil be softe and white. Take also Sope well purged, and take the Ashes of a [...], and mixe them well togither, vntill they be well 21 incorporated the one with the other: and washe


46

your handes with it in the morning, and thei wil be moist, softe & white as snowe, which thing is experimented. ⁂The seconde part of the Secretes of Master Alexis of Piemont, 1560 To make also hore heares blacke,

take black Sope, and quicke lime, and some litarge of Golde, and make thereof as it were an ointment, and rubbe your heares with it, and continue so a while accor|ding as you shall see neede, and whan they be become blacke, leaue theim so, and if they returne to be white againe, doe as before. ⁂ The seconde part of the Secretes of Master Alexis of Piemont, 1560 To make white heare in the shadowe: without the sunne, and shall become white and

shining like siluer. TAke of the roote of the greater centory three vnces with two vnces of gomme Arabick and asmuche of Dragant and Alome, a pound of Venitien Sope, a pound of Alumen fecis albae, and haue ready first xxv. pounde of riuer water, and put into it of this roote of Centorie cut with a fewe of his leaues whiche you shall boile vntill the water diminishe of the thirde parte, then lette it stand in the sunne the space of fiuetene daies, and boile in it all the saide thinges, and than it is called of the Frenche menne and Italians Blonde a la venitiane. And in the morning whan you please wash your heare wel with it, and wrappe or binde theim vp in a Naptkin or ker|chief, and whan nighte cometh you shall washe theim ordinarily, and putte into it this your lie of the herbe called vitriol, & then wipe them drie where you thinke good, be it in the sunne or by the fire, and do this twise or thrise a weeke, and your heares will be white and shine as it were siluer. ⁂ The seconde Alexis, 1560 A sofee dowe or paste as it were Pomatum, to washe the handes, and whan the mouth,

Nose, Lippes, or Handes do chincke or chappe, and it keepeth the fleshe softe and sweete.

TAke white Almondes, Alumen fecis, flower of Amilum of eche of them sixe vnces, white Pine apple kernels, cleane seedes of Gourdes, and Be[...]ne flower, of eche of theim foure vnces, pouder of Cloues, Storax solida in pouder, and Maca|leb in pouder of eche of them three vnces, with twoo vnces of white Salte beaten, a pound of white Hon|nie, and asmuche of venise Sope, a scruple of Muske and as muche of Ciuet, the whites of tenne Egges. Firste take the Almondes, and Pine apple kernels, with the seedes of Gourdes or Melons that be very white and neat, and stampe the~ well in a morter. And note that all the importance is that they bee all well 84 stamped very small: then put in the Alumen fecis, and stampe them well, than put in the Honie and incorpo|rate it well togither with the pestle, And after this, you shall put in the sope cutt in small pieces, and in|corporate them diligently, this don, put in two pound and a half of the herbe called Brionia, & temper all well. Put all this into a newe pot, and leaue it so couered a daie, then set it on a fire of coles with out smoke, and lette it seeth the space of a quarter of an houre, and sturre it alwaies in the pot with a wodden spone, that it cleaue not to the bottome, and so take some euill sa|uour, then take it from the fire, and poure it out into a greate earthen pan. Then put into it the foresaide slower, and that beyng well incorporated, put in the pouder of Cloues, and all the other pouders togither and all beyng well incorporated, couer it close that it maie take no aier, and lette it remaine so the space of ten daies. Then put into it the Macaleb, the muske and the ciuet braid and beaten very small, and incorporate all well togither with a slise, this done put in the eg|ges beaten, so that they become as it were a skim or frothe, and then put in the salt, and mixe al well togi|ther, in suche wise that the whole maie be well incor|porated.


47

And then the paste or dowe wilbe of a Graie colour, and odoriferous, and is called Imperiall oint|ment, bicause it is a thing noble and full of vertu, and a man maie vse alwaies of this precious odour which conforteth the memorie, and if you vse it to wash your handes and face with, it will giue a sweete sauour to them, and maketh the fleshe delicate and softe, white and well saudring, and closeth vp quickly al maner of cleftes, chinkes or chappes of the mouth, handes and lippes. And if you will not washe your selfe with it, anoint yourself morning and euening, and you shall incontinent b[...] healed, for this hath bene many times proued by experience. ⁂ The seconde part of the Secretes of Master Alexis of Piemont, 1560 Balles of Sope for Barbers of diuers sortes and sauours.

FIrste you muste note that the Sope is purged and purified two maner of waies. The first is the venitian Sope beyng3 cut small muste be put in a pot that is not fatty, nor hauing any euill sauour, and put into it some rose water or other sweete waters, or els in this maner folowing: Take well water and put into it cheuers of cipers, and seeth it a good while, than straine it, & it wil be very odori|ferous and sweete: or els putte in the floures of myrtle tree, of Orenge tree, Cedar tree, Spicke, Lauander, Agnus castus, Sticados, beyond sea Violettes, Sage, and suche other odoriferous floures or herbes, as Ced[...], Baie, our ladies glooues, Minte, Maioram, Time, and other sweete herbes, and make of all this a com|position, & so make a sweete water of diuers sauours, and so seeth it a little: This done take of the sope that 101 swimmeth aboue with a Spoone, and laie it vpon a newe Tile, and it wil incontinent be drie and shal re|maine neate and cleane, bicause the water hath taken awaie al the filth and vnctuosite of the sope, and ther|fore will be faire and white without any euil sauour, hauing augmented the good smell of it. And this maie you keepe against you haue neede of it: And this is the very true purging and purifying of it, mary it dimi|nisheth it of an vnce or a little more in the pounde. Al|so another maner is, that you muste cut the sope very small or els grate it, and drie it in the sunne or in an ouen, and make thereof pouder passing it thorowe a fine sarce. This don weate it with Rose water or wa|ter of Spicke, and lette it drie in the shadow or in the winde, or els for to make it soner, cutte your sope and stampe it, and nothing els, and put vnto it some pou|der of Irios, Storax, and a little Camfire, and beate it all togither, and then make your Bals, and so you maie incontinent after distribute them. True it is that thei be not of any great value. But for to incorporate the odours in the sope for Barbers balles, you must take sixe vnces of the said sope, and stampe it wel in a mor|ter, and put into it all these thinges folowing made into fine pouder, for in this lieth the honour and per|fection of your worke. An vnce of Labdanum, foure vn|ces of Macaleb, an vnce of Anise, three Nutmegges, Maioram, drie Roses, Cipres pouder, of eche of them halfe an vnce, three vnces of cloues, sixe vnces of Irios, eight vnces of the flower of Amylum, with asmuche of Storax liquida, as will lie vpon a peny, three graines of Muske, or foure at the moste, sixe scruples of Camfire, with a little of the finest Sugre that you can get. And lette all these thinges be well stamped, and incorpora|ted with in the Sope, & you shall make a past or dowe some what fast or ferme, of the whiche you shal forme and make greate or small balles as you shall thinke best, and let them drie in the shadowe and they will be 102 parfite. For to make also of another sorte, take two pound of the foresaid sope, and stampe it wel, then put into it the iuice of Macaleb about two vnces, and for to knowe it, note that it is like a corne


48

of whete, and of the same colour, but somewhat round & a little grea|ter. And for to get out the iuice of it, stiepe it in Rose water, or other sweete water, & let it remaine in it vn|till it swell. Then stampe it and put it in a linen cloth, and straine it hard, and the white iuice that commeth out of it, is the iuice of Macaleb, and of the sauour of Macaleb, and the rest that remaineth you shal drie and make of it pouder, the which you maie also occupie bi|cause it hath the like vertue & the sauour of violettes: with that you shall take two vnces of Cloues, three vnces of Irios, an vnceand a halfe of Ladanum, an vnce of Storax, & all this beyng made into very fine pouder, let it be incorporated into the Sope, & you shal make a past or dowe ferme & fast, whereof you shall forme and facion your balles setting them to drie in the shadow. To make also balles of white sope, take fiue pound of the saide sope, and put into it foure vnces of Irios, two vnces of white Sandale, three vnces of the floure of Amylum, an vnce of Storax, & make al this into pouder; and stampe well altogither, & stiepe it a little in Rose water, or muskt water, and you shal make of it a good past, wherof you shal forme & make your balles eue~ as you will. Also for to make the~ simple & good, take iiij. pound of the said white sope· with v. vnces of the pou|der of Irios, two vnces of cloues, iij. Vnces of the pouder of Macaleb, & incorporate them well togither in a mor|ter with the water of Trefle or of spike, and you shall make a forme and fast dowe, whereof you maie make your balles, and they will be very soone drie. ⁂ The seconde part of the Secretes of Master Alexis of Piemont, 1560

From Delightes for Ladies to adorne their Persons, Tables, Closets, and Distillatories with

Beauties, Banquets, Perfumes & Water, by Sir Hugh Plat, 1609:

A delicate washing ball.

Take three ounces of Orace [orris], half an ounce of Cypres, two ounces of Calamus Aromaticus, one ounce of Rose leaves, two ounces of Lavender flowres: beat all these together in a mortar, searching them thorow a fine Searce, then scrape some castill sope, and dissolve it with some Rose-water, then incorporate all your powders therewith, by labouring of them well in a mortar. ⁂ Delightes for Ladies, 1609

From The English Hous-wife by Gervase Markham's, 1615:

To make washing balls

To make very good washing bals, take Storax of both kinds, Benjamin, Calamus Aromaticus, Labdanum of each a like, and bray them to powder with Cloves and Arras; then beat them all with a sufficient quantity of Sope till it be stiff, then with your hand you shall work it like paste, and make round bals therof. ⁂ The English Hous-wife, 1615

A sidenote: The Method of Physick, contaning the cavses, signes, and cures of inward diseases in

mans body from the head to the foote by Philip Barrough, 1624, presents this little gem of information on cleaning the body while bathing:

Stronger scourers then these, be, the froth of Salt peter, the Salt-peter itselfe, and then Aphonitrum :

Sope is one of them that is able to scoure most of all. Moreover, after a bath, you must give the

patient nothing but water which hath had a little Apium sodden in it, although there be three houres

space between the bathing and the suspected houres.


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Laundry From Nürnberger Kunstbuch by Anonymous, 15th CE:

How to get dirt out of clothing.

xxii. Item if you want to get dirt out of fabric, take the yolk of an egg and beat it well and spread it on the spot and rub it in, until it goes through [the fabric]. Then spread it on the other side [of the fabric] and again rub it very well in; then let it dry, and take then good soap and a bit of water and wash it, and it will go away. ⁂ Nürnberger Kunstbuch, 15th CE How one shall wash an undergown. xxxiii. If you want to wash an undergown, take three measures of ashes and put them in a great open vessel and pour first hot boiling water thereon and then cold water so that the vessel is full and let it become strong, and sieve it then through a cloth and dunk the gown therein and wash it when cool, otherwise it will be yellow, and rub it well with soap on the collar and the sleeves, and where it is sweaty. If you think that the lye solution is too strong, mix it well with water or pour more water on the ashes and mix it first. ⁂ Nürnberger Kunstbuch, 15th CE

From Manual de mujeres by Anonymous, 16th CE:

Recipe to remove spots

An azumbre [2 liters] of clear water, and an (azumbre) of cow bile, and a fistful of vine-shoot ash, and two ounces of ground white argol of wine. Boil everything together for a good while, and as you have boiled it take it off of the fire and add one ounce of rock alum. And when you want to remove the spots, do it thus: if it was a colored blemish, put on the spot an egg yolk beaten with a little salt; and if it was a white blemish, a little soap; and if it is linen, wipe it with lemon juice and put a little soap on it. And then, to everything wash it with the water or the aforementioned lye. ⁂ Manual de mujeres, 16th CE

From T bouck va wonder, anonymous, 1513:

32. To make soap, that, purifies all sorts of stains, whatever they might be.

Take rock alum, lees [wine lees, or tartar] one pound and make this in a powder, rhizomes of flames or waterlilies of Florence, pulverized a half pound, a fresh egg, two pounds and a half of spanish soap, stomp the previously mentioned powders with the egg and the soap, and make little balles thereof. And if you think the egg was not enough, take as many as you like, or as you think is enough, to make the previously mentioned. And if you want to take on the stain, take clean water, and soak and wash the mentioned stain of both sides of the sheet, and rub with the mentioned ball, and sheet on sheet; that done, wash the dirtiness out with fresh water, and wring the sheet to get rid of the fat, and wash the sheet again with fresh water, and it will stay clean. ⁂ T bouck va wonder, 1513


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35. To do a stain on a scarlate or [gheuerwet] velvet, such that the dye does not change nor

corrupts.

Take the herb that the grocer calls saponaria, or volderscruyt [which is fullers herb, or Saponaria officinalis], make sap of it, which you shall put on the stain, and keep it on an hour, if it is summer, and if it is winter, the time of four hours. Then take lukewarm water and wash the sheet atop the stain, if you think that it does not clean, do more of the mentioned sap on top. And if the scarlet is not dyed in grain, do half black soap on it, and half of the sap of the mentioned herb, and stick it on the stain, then wash with warm water, and the stain should go, it is tried and experimented. ⁂ T bouck va wonder, 1513

From Allerley Mackel: To remove stains from cloth, velvet, silk, gold stuffs and clothing these stains

being of grease, oil or wine stains or any other kinds, and how to do this easily without damage,

with waters or lyes as will be taught in this booklet. Thereto also how to restore clothing which has

lost its color, as well as how one dyes yarn and linen, and also wood and bone, in a variety of

colors, by Peter Jordanim, 1532:

To make a water for removing spots from white cloth Take four ounces alum feces and two bucklin full of water, and let it boil down a quarter. Then take white soap and cut it into small pieces, take also an ounce of alum, and put it all in the water. Let it stand for two days and use it then on white cloth, as mentioned above. ⁂ Allerley Mackel, 1532 To remove various stains and spots from crimson velvet

Take vine stem ashes, make with them a good lye, the which lye take two bucklin full and put therein a loth of alum feces. Let it stand a while and then strain it through. Then take a fifth of an ounce of alum, a fifth of hard soap, a half fifth of soft soap, a quarter of common salt, a quarter sal ammoniac, a half-quarter celandine juice, and a quarter calf's gall. Mix it all together and strain it through a linen cloth. To use this liquid, then take wool shearings of scarlet and add thereto a little fine ground brasilwood, boil it all in this water a little, sieve it again through a cloth, and you will have a good red water which removes all stains. And whatever colors you wish to remove spots from, take the same color of wool shearings and do with it as has been taught above. ⁂ Allerley Mackel, 1532




Rounde apples or balles to take ou[...] spottes of oyle [...] grease. TAke purgine Sope, or soft Sope, and incorporate it with the asshes of vines finelie sifted, as much of the one as of the other, than put amonge the saied poulder Roche Alome burned, and the drye leese of [...]yne well beaten into poulder, incorporate well all together, and make therof lyttle round Apples or balles: whiche you maye vse to take oute spottes of any garmente. ⁂ The Alexis, 1558 From The seconde part of the Secretes of Master Alexis of Piemont by hym collected out of diuers




51

Sope to get out all spottes of cloth.

TAke a pound of Alome and burne it, sixe vnces of pouder of Ireos, and lette all be well beaten in pouder togither. Then take two pounde and a half of white sope, and half an oxe gall, and the white of an Egge or two, and incorporate them well togi|ther: Then take the Alome and the pouder of Ireos, and incorporate them all togither, and putte into theim a little Salnitrum or salt peter: This done put into it as|muche of the said incorporated Sope, as will make it haue a substance or bodie: to the intent that ye may fa|cion and make rounde balles in a good ferme and fast paste or dowe, and so drie theim in the shadow and not in the sunne, bicause the sunne is contrary to it. And if you make them for to sell, make them by measure, and by weight, and whan you wil take out your spot, weate ar[...]e the clothe vp and doune: then rubbe it well with the sope, and cloth against cloth: This don you shall washe it with colde water vntill the water were cleere: and if you think it be not out al togither, 95 lette the clothe drie, and do ones againe as you did be|fore, and the spottes will go out. ⁂ The seconde Alexis, 1560 Another like secret. TAke a pounde of white Sope of Venise, the yelkes of sixe Egges, and halfe a sponefull of beaten Salt, and asmuche iuice of Beetes as will suffise to incorporate the saide Sope, and make thereof a cleauing past, whereof you shall forme and make your balles, and let them drie in the shadowe, and whan they be drie weate your clothe vp and doune with cleere water, and then rubbe it with sope, and washe it as is a fore declared, and the spottes will goe awaie. ⁂ The seconde Alexis, 1560

Another like.

TAke a pounde of white Sope cutte very small, the Gall of an Oxe, or he Goate Alumen cati|num, of eche of them an vnce, the yelkes of two Egges, and a fewe ashes very fine, and incor|porate well al togither with the sope in a morter, and so make thereof paste, whereof you shall make balles and doe as before is said. ⁂ The seconde Alexis, 1560 Another meane.

TAke the Gall of an olde Oxe, and a pounde of Fenigreke made in pouder, a pounde and a half of white sope, three flago~s of strong lie, & put al togither and seeth it on a slowe fire vn|till it diminishe of the halfe. Then washe what spotte you will with it refreshing it diuers times with colde water and it will take it awaie. ⁂ The seconde Alexis, 1560 Another meanes for spottes, of fatte or Oile. TAke a pounde of rocke Alome, and as muche freshe vnsleck lime, sixe vnces of Alumen fecis, three pounde of white Sope cutte small, foure pound of cleere water, and let it boile a certaine space in some vessell that is not fatty, and than straine it, and whan you will occupie of it, let it be luke warme, and weate the spottes with the saide water on bothe sides of the cloth, and the cloth togither: then washe it with cleere water, and the spottes will be gon, then washe it againe with a little Sope and freshe water, and at the second or third time, they will without all peraduenture go out. Also for spottes you maie take two pintes of renning water, the Gall of an oxe, four vnces of Alom De fece burnt, and three vnces of Alumen fecis broiled, and two scruples of Camfer, and put all togither, and seeth it, vntill half be diminished: Then straine it, and washe what spottes you will with it, and within twise or thrise washing, they will go out. ⁂ The seconde Alexis, 1560


52

To take spottes out of Skarlate or Veluet, without burting the colour.

TAke the herbe called Lauaria, of the Apoticaries Condisi, and get out the iuice of it, and laie it vp|on the spot the space of two or three houres, the~ washe it well with warme water, and if you thinke the spot not well taken awaie, do it ones more, and if the clothe be not died in graine, put to it a little sope, with another little quantite of the saide iuice, and in|corporate it well, and so washe the spot with it, and it will go out. ⁂ The seconde Alexis, 1560

To take spottes out of white silke or Veluet in griene or Crimsen Veluet.

TAke stronge Aqua vite of three stillinges, and weate the spot with it vp and doune: then take the white of a newe laide Egge, and spreade it vpon the spot, and so set it in the sunne to drie. This done wash it trimly with freshe and cleere water, and so wring well the spotte betwee[...]e your handes, and it will go out, and do this twise at the lest: for the colour will not perishe nor decaie. Also for a cloth in graine, 97 take Alome water, and washe well the spotte with it, rubbing it harde clothe againste clothe, this dooen, washe it againe with clere water, and in twise doing it, it will goe out. Also for the like effecte, take roche Alome, Tartre of tonnes, and white Sope, of eche of them three vnces, and make theim into very fine pou|der: this doen, take twoo Oxe galles, and an yearthen pot that is not in any wise fattie or greasie, and putte into it ha~dsomely at your discrecion, and so sette it on the fire, and when it beginneth to seeth, cast in by and by the oxe gall, and the pouder, and let it so boile vn|till it be diminished of the third or fourth part. Then washe the spot with this water three or foure times and at euery time drie the cloth. And finally renewe it with freshe water, and you shall see the effect. ⁂ The seconde part

of the Secretes of Master Alexis of Piemont, 1560 To take out a spot of inke or wine of a wollen or linen clothe.

TAke the iuice of Limons, Orenges, or citrons, and wete the spot with it diuers times, letting it drie at euery time, this done washe it with hote water, and it will go out. Vse also white Sope with white Vinaigre, and the spot of inck will easely goe out. ⁂ The seconde Alexis, 1560

From I secreti de la Signora Isabella Cortese by Isabella Cortese, 1561:

Chapter 52. To make soap balls / in order to remove stains

Take soap / and incorporate it with the ashes of grapevine wood / well sieved with the same amount of chalk [lime] / as well burnt alum / tartarum well ground / put all this together into a mortar/ and grind it well / make a dough out of it / so you can make fine balls out of it / round or elongated just as you want / and let them dry in the shade / keep them and use them for stains / like mentioned above / and wash it out afterwards well with clear water, so the cloth will become clean and pure. ⁂ Frauen Isabellae Cortese, 1596

From The thyrde and last parte of the Secretes of the reuerende Maister Alexis of Piemont by him

collected out of diuers excellent authours, with a necessary table in the ende, conteyning all the

matters treated of in this present worke, by Girolamo Ruscelli, 1562:

A water to take spots out of whyte clothe. TAke foure vnces of alumen fecis, a pint of water, and seeth them vntil thei be consumed to the. iiii. part. Than take whyte Sope and cut it small, an vnce of Alome: put al into the water, & let it stand the space of two dayes, & vse it for your whyte cloth as before. ⁂ The thyrde and last parte of the Secretes, 1562


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To take all spots out of crymsen Veluet.

TAke the ashes made of Uine twigges, and make therewith good Lie, whereof you shall take but a pinte, and put into it half an vnce of alumen fecis, and let it stand a litle whyle, and than strayne it. This done, take a dragme of Alome, half a dragme of Spanishe Sope, and half a dragme of soft Sope a quar+ter of a bragme of common salt, and a quarter of salt Armoniacke, halfe a quarter of the iuyce of Celan|dine, a quarter of the galle of a Ealfe. Put al together and straine it thorow a linnen clothe. And whan you wil occupy of the sayd water, take flocks· or shearings of Scarlate, and a litle Brasyl smal; seeth all that a li|tle in the saide water, and than strained [...] thorow a li|nen cloth· and you shal haue a fai[...] water· which wyll take the spottes out of anye lyke crymsen colour. And what colour soeuer your clothe be that hath the spots, the same colour flockes or shearinges muste you take. Not withstanding if it be not red, you muste leaue out your Brasyll. ⁂ The

thyrde and last parte of the Secretes, 1562 To make a sope that taketh out all spottes.

TAke a pound of roche Alome, beate it into pouder: the rootes of Iris of Florence made in pouder, halfe a pound of new layed egges, two pound and a halfe of Spanishe Sope, bray the sayd pouders with the Egges and Sope, and make thereof round bals. If one Egge be not inough, take as many as you shal thinke good. And whan you wil take oute any spot of grease, washe the place of the spot on both sydes of the cloth with fayre water, than rubbe it with the sayde balles and cloth vpon cloth. This done, washe out the odure with cleane water, and wring the cloth to make the grease or filth come out the better. Than washe it still with cleane water, and it wil be cleane. ⁂ The thyrde and last parte of the Secretes, 1562

To take spots out of Scarlate or Veluet of colours, wythout hurtyng any thyng at all the

colour.

TAke the iuyce of Saponaria, called of the Apoticaries condi si or [...]auaria· the which you shal lay vpon y^[...] spot leauing it so an houre longe, if it be in Sommer, and foure houres if it be in [...]ter: Than take luke warme water and washe the spot with it, & if it scoure not cleane, put more iuyce vpon it, or elles of the said moisture of the orenges or Lemons: but if it be Scar|late not died in graine, laye vpon halfe Sope, and halfe iuyce: and than washe it with whote water, and the spot wil go out. ⁂ The thyrde and last parte of the Secretes, 1562

From A shorte discourse of the most rare and excellent vertue of nitre wherein is declared the

sondrie and diuerse cures by the same effected, and how it may be aswell receiued in medicine

inwardly as outwardly plaiterwise applied by Thomas Chaloner, 1584:

For sponginge or skouring of greace, or of filthie spottes or soyle out of silke or lynnen or

bomba|zine, or wollen or leather.

SPonge with the foresaide Trociskes of Nitre and Sope dissolued, and vsed hot with a yong boye childes vrine distil|led or vndistilled, or with vinegre distilled, or white vinegre vndistilled, (or more speciallye) with iuyce of Lymondes, or of verie soure Orenges, repeating the doing thereof sundr[...] times if it so needeth. ⁂ A shorte discourse, 1584


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For to skowre & supple Buffe-leather, Shamois le|ther, and such like skinnes, to make

them to be|come cleane, drie, suplle and soft.

NItre (vsed first with warme Lie, dulce, and not ouer sharpe, and then Nitre eftesones with warme water) doth that busines so well, as none better. ⁂ A shorte discourse, 1584 For to taw and make furres, supple and soft.

WAshe them in warme water with Nitre sope (afore des|cribed) & they shall become so softe and perfectlie supple: As (drying them at the fire, or neuer so manie times after wet and dryed) they shall not be hard nor stiffe. ⁂ A shorte discourse, 1584

From A Profitable Booke declaring diuers approoued Remedies, to take out spots and staines in

Silkes, Veluets, Linnen and Woollen Clothes: With diuers Colours how to die Veluets and Silkes,

Linnenn and Woollen, Fustian and Thread: Also to dresse Leather, and to colour Felles. How to

guild, graue, sowder, and Vernish. And to harden and make soft Yron and Steele. Verie necessarie

for all men, specially for those which haue or shall haue any doing therein: with a perfect Table

hereunto, to finde all things readie, not the like reuealed in English heretofore, by Thomas Purfoot, 1588:

To wash a Scarlet which is greasie

Take of white Carter [castil soap] well and finely beaten, foure ounces: then boyle it in two pound of fayre water, till the third part be consumed; then take it from the fyre, & let it coole, and then straine it through a linnen cloth, and when you will use thereof, make it then milke warme & wash therewith your cloth. Then hang it to dry, and you shall see it fayre, and returne to his first estate and coloure againe. ⁂ A Profitable Booke, 1588

To make a sope to take foorth greace or other spots whatsoeuer they be.

Take one pound of roch Allom burned and made into a fine poulder. Also take of the rootes cald flames of florance (so called in Dutch) halfe a pound: then beate it into a poulder. Then take a new layd egge, & of white sope two pounde & a halfe, then blend your poulder and your egge & sope altogether well, and thereof make pellots or bals, & if one egge be not suficient, then take two, or soe much as shall suffice to make your said past withall, and when ye shall haue occasion to take foorth any spotte take first of common water & wash your spottes on both sides withall warme, then take of the said pellots, and rubbe all ouer the spots in the cloth: so done, then wash out the filth with fayre & cleare water & if there remaine some part & be not all cleane, wash it againe as afore is mentioned, till it be all cleane, & so shall ye haue it as faire as before. ⁂ A Profitable Booke, 1588 To make a sope to take out spottes of oyle and of greace.

Take of good scowring sope, and mixe it finely with the sifted ashes of a vyne, of eche in like portion, then put thereunto a quantitie of the powder of burnt Allom, and also of the lyes of wine, beaten into a fine poulder, and put it thereunto, then mixe and incorporate all these well together, then make thereof square brickes, or round bals, and when you shall haue made to occupie thereof, then take of warme water, and rubbe and chafe all ouer your spottie places, and then rub thereon with your sope ball, if then it bee not all cleane, then must yee take your warme water againe, and rubbe and chafe it as yee did before, and then your sope, and so at length ye shall haue it cleane forth. ⁂ A Profitable Booke, 1588


55

A good way to washe a shirt, and saue the Gold or silke thereon, from stayning.

Take a new shirt first of all afore it bee euer weat, and lay the coller and ruffes or silke in pisse somewhat warme half an houre space, then take it forth, and then wash it in hote scalding liquor, or seeth it, and it shall neuer stayne the silke. If ye haue not pisse, yee may take grounds of strong beere or ale, and let the silke lye therin the night before ye doe wash it. And this hath been oft prooued verie true. But alwayes ye must foresee, that ye hange not your clothes in the hote sunne after they be washt, but laye another cloth thereon betwixt the Sunne and it, or else the Sunne will chaunge both Golde, Siluer and Silke. Therefore it is better to hang them in some place of shade after their washing, if ye can. Also to sope your water to much, or your clothes is an occasion to staine both gold and silkes. A verie good way is, first to melt your sope in the licour, and then let it coole, and so to wash your clothes therin. ⁂ A Profitable Booke, 1588 Another way good to helpe spottes or staynes.

Ye shall first take halfe a gall of an Oxe, the older the better, of fenygreke made in fine powder halfe a pound, a quarter of a pound of white sope, a gallon of strong common lye, mixe altogether therein, and set them on the fire, and seeth them softly till they be halfe wasted, and whensoeuer ye will occupie thereof, heate it warme, and wash your spots therewith, in mixing it often with faire cold water, and it shall doe well. ⁂ A Profitable Booke, 1588

The last sidenote: the strangest mention of soap making I’ve found to date, from The Customs of London otherwise called Arnold’s Chronicle, by Richard Arnold, 1503:

The coestes to make Soep.

To make iij. Last soep; ij. Tonne of seuyll oyle [Seville olive oil], iij. Laste soep hashis [hemp?], iij

lode talwode [firewood], A lode on sleked lyme [unslaked lime], iij. Laste of barell{is}.

Mennys laboer mete and drynke.

The barell of soep xxx. Galones.

The barell of aell xxxij. Galones

The barell of beer xxxvi galones


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Materia Medica & Profumatoria

Agnus castus Vitex agnus-castus, or Chaste tree Agrimony Agrimonia sp.

Allum, Roch Roche alum, Rock alum or Roman alum. See Alum Alome, roche ~ rock alum Alum alum, hydrated potassium aluminium sulfate (potassium alum) Alum, burnt alum; heated to nearly a red heat, it gives a porous, friable mass, known as “burnt alum” Alumen fecis alom de fece, alum feces, burnt alum; ashes created by burning tartar from wine lees Aluminis catini lume catini; soda, sodium carbonate Ambergris, ambracane a waxlike substance that originates as a secretion in the intestines of the sperm whale, Amylum, amidum, amydoun wheat starch Aqua vite, Aqua vitae grain alcohol Arabick, gomme gum Arabic, Acacia senegal Argentum quicksilver, mercury Argol tartar, obtained from wine fermentation Armoniacke armoniac, dried gum of the armonia tree Dorema ammoniacum Arome aroma, possibly from french arome Auans, Auencis Auancia, Geum urbanum; wood avens or herb bennet Barrowes grease Hog's lard Bengewine see Benzoin Benjamin gum benjamin, gum benzoin. Styrax sp., especially S. benzoin. Benzoin gum benzoin. Styrax sp., especially S. benzoin. Brasyl, Brasyll brasil-wood, Caesalpinia sp. Brimstone sulfur, or sulphur Brionia Mandrake, Bryonia alba (white) or Bryonia dioica (red) Buglosse water an infusion of the herb Echium vulgare or Viper's Bugloss. Calamus aromaticus sweet sedge, Acorus calamus Calcanthum Chalcanth, used for blue vitriol (CuSO4), and the ink made from it. The term was also

applied to red vitriol (a native sulfate of cobalt), and green vitriol (ferrous sulfate). Camfire camphor, Cinnamonum camphora Capitellum the stongest lye, or first lye, made from leaching ashes Celandine common or garden celandine, Chelidonium majus Centorie, Centory, Centaury centaury, yellowwort, Centaurium erythraea Cerrus unknown; possibly cerusa or white lead (carbonate of lead) Chalk white limestone (calcium carbonate) formed from skeletal remains of sea creatures. Chalk, stone chalk in small bits Cipers possibly ciperus, Cyperus Longus or galingale; a root similar to ginger Ciuet, cyvette civet or civet musk, the glandular secretion produced by both sexes of the civet cat. Coddes a husk, skin, scrotum, bag Copperas vitriol, formerly applied to all the vitriols Crocus, oriental possibly Saffron crocus stigmas; an orange-yellow colorant Cuttlebone the flattened internal skeleton of the cuttlefish, made of chalky material. Cyperus Iuncus odoratus Cyperus Longus or galingale; a root similar to ginger Cypres, poulder of ~ Cypress powder, or Arum; also Cuckoo Pint, Jack in the Pulpit, Dragon Dragant gum dragant, gum tragacanthe; Astralagus gummifer Egges, oyle of ~ made from egg yolkes. Eyuery ivory, would used as a powder Fenigreke fenugreek, Trigonella foenumgraecum Fermentum acris rum; Cerevisice Fermentum, prepared by distillation with leaves of Myrcia acris. Genciana gentian Gentiana sp. Golde, litarge of ~ yellowish-red lead oxide produced by relatively slow cooling; also litharge containing the

base metal oxides produced in the cupellation of gold.


57

Gilliflower, Gillyflower cloves, or Syzygium aromaticum (also carnation, Dianthus caryphyllus) Guacum, decoction of ~ decoction of guaiacum Hemlocke Hemlock plant, not pine (only for topical use, it is poisonous when ingested) Housloeke, or senegreene Houseleek, Sempervivum Hirios, Irios, Ireos orris root Iris florentinae Iris florentina, the white flowered variant of Iris germanica (Iris germanica nothovar) Iris of Florence Variant of Iris florentina Isope, Hysope Hyssop Labdanum, Ladanum Labdanum: a gum resin obtained from the twigs of a southern European rockrose. Lappa maior Arctium lappa or burdock. Lauaria unknown, possibly Laminaria or deep sea tangle, a type of seaweed. Leade, redde red lead, a red form of lead oxide used as a pigment. Lectuarie electuary; a medicinal conserve or paste of powder mixed with honey, syrup etc. Leese lees, the bottom dregs of a fermenting vessel ; wine lees is rich in tartar. Licores, lycores, lycoures liqueur: an alcoholic beverage made from a distilled spirit that has been flavored with fruit,

cream, herbs, spices, flowers or nuts and bottled with added sweetener. Lignum aloes garwood, also known as oud, oodh, agar, aloeswood or lign-aloes, is a dark resinous

heartwood of mold infected Aquilaria and Gyrinops trees. Lignum Aquila, Agilawood Agarwood, also lignum aloes Lignum rhodium rosewood; used as an incense Lily, juice of a ~ Madonna lily. Lily, cardinal ~ See Lily, possibly a red colored one. Lime, quicklime calcium oxide, produced by calcining limestone, etc. Lime; unslaked, unquenched same as lime; calcium oxide Lime; slaked, quenced calcium hydroxide Limestone calcium carbonate

Lymondes lemons Macaleb possibly mahaleb, perfumed cherry, Prumus maheleb (Rosaceae) Mace The dried arillus of the fruit or nutmeg Maisticke, masticke mastic, Pistacia lentiscus

Mallowes, marsh Althaea sp., or Marsh Mallow Mercinye possibly mercury, mercuric chloride Mercury Subblimed mercuric chloride, also salts of white mercury Morfewe, morphewe a leprous eruption on the face; a morpheu or statnying of the skynne Mumia a resinous excrescence from mummies Muske, musk a secretion of the male musk deer Myrtle tree Myrtus sp. Nitre, or saltpeter potassium nitrate Oldano, olibanum frankincence; gum oldanum Orace unknown; possibly Orris. Orange, bitter ~ pips bitter oranges are seville oranges, pips are seeds Orenges oranges Orpiment arsenic trisulfide, formerly used as a dye and artist's pigment

Orris ris root, or Rhizoma Iridis, derived from I. Germanica, I. pallida and I. Florentina, Ox gall gall, usually obtained from cows, which is mixed with alcohol; a wetting agent Paritarie from Italian: equal, level, matching Peper, long Piper longum, long pepper Pitch, liquide resin of pitch, Sarracenia purpurea Pitch, stone resin of pitch, Sarracenia purpurea Posset milk curdled with wine or ale Rew, Rewe meadow rue, lesser meadow rue, Ruta graveolens, Thalictrum flavum/minus Rosatum Mesue unknown. Rosatum = roses, Mesue ? Rose water steam distillation of roses or rose petals infused in water Saltpeter, Salnitrum, also nitre potassium nitrate Sandale, red ~ red saunders or sandalwood, Pterocarpus santalinus

Sandali citrini yellow saunders or sandal wood, Santalum album


58

Sandall, white white sandalwood tree, Santalum album Saponaria, iuyce of ~ juice of a soap plant like soapwort, fullers herb, or Saponaria officinalis Scarlate scarlat, scarlet; red color Scorpions, oyle of ~ tincture of scorpions boiled in olive oil, mixed with treacle Senegreene, Sengreene Houseleek, Sempervivum Siluer, lytarge of ~ yellowish-white lead oxide produced by relatively rapid cooling; litharge containing the base

metal oxides produced in the cupellation of silver. Sinamon Cinnamon, Cinnamomum zeylanicum sowre Leuen sour lemon Spike, oyle of ~ oil of spike, or spike, is the essential oil obtained by distillation of Lavendula spica

Spikenard Nardostachys jatamansi of the valerian family; essential oil Sticados, stickedoue, sticadoue French lavender, Lavendula stoechas Storax, solida solid storax, styrax, Styrax officinalis Storax calamita storax, styrax, Styrax officinalis, the first and best gum that drips out of the storax tree Storax, liquid (storax liquida) liquid amber, Styrax officinalis Strike a dry measure varying from one bushel to two. Sugar Rosate, ~ rosarum, ~ roset sugar with rosewater or petals of roses Sulphur the chemical element of atomic number 16, a yellow combustible nonmetal Sulphur viuo sulphur vivum; live sulphur, or sulphur in its natural state (not sublimed) Tartar solids rich in tartaric acid which settle at the bottom of a wine cask Tartar, cream of potash (potassium carbonate) combined with tartaric acid in solution precipitates cream of

tartar, or potassium bitartrate. Tartar, oil of ~ a saturated solution of potassium carbonate Temper mix; apply heat is a modern meaning Uncome a skin eruption or boil Unguent ointment Verditer a light blue or bluish-green pigment, typically prepared by adding chalk or whiting to a

solution of copper nitrate, used in making crayons and as a watercolor Verdygrece, verdigrece verdigris: a bright bluish-green encrustation or patina formed on copper or brass by

atmospheric oxidation, consisting of basic copper carbonate Vessel well leaded ceramic vessel made waterproof with lead glaze on the inside. Violettes, Sea Violettes, florentine violet Viola sp. Vitriol sulfuric acid Vitrioll, Romayne ~ Blue, or roman, vitriol is cupric sulfate; green vitriol is ferrous sulfate. White vitriol is zinc

sulfate; red, or rose, vitriol is cobalt sulfate; and uranvitriol is a native uranium sulfate. Oil of vitriol is concentrated sulfuric acid.

Vynegre vinegar CAUTION: When recreating recipes please keep all safety precaucions in mind: double check the background of each ingredient and do not use when in doubt. Many medieval ingredients are not deemed safe by modern standards. Dictionaries to help translate Middle English texts: - The electronic Middle English Dictionary at http://quod.lib.umich.edu/m/med/lookup.html - A Middle-English Dictionary Containing Words used by English Writers from the Twelfth to the Fifteenth Century, by Francis Henry Stratmann, 1891. Free pdf download available at: https://books.google.com/books?id=4rIVAAAAYAAJ&dq=middle+english+dictionary&source=gbs_navlinks_s- http://www.british-history.ac.uk/ - a good resource for arcane English words and practices. Botanical, medical & chemical ingredient glossaries consulted for this Compendium: - Wikipedia; http://wikipedia.org/ - A Modern Herbal by Mrs. M. Grieve, 1931, at http://www.botanical.com/botanical/mgmh/mgmh.html - The Trotula by Monica H. Green, 2002. - Natural Magick by John Baptista Porta (Giambattista della Porta, 1537-1615). http://www.faculty.umb.edu/gary_zabel/Courses/Phil%20281b/Philosophy%20of%20Magic/Natural_Magic/a.htm - Cavallo, P. et al. The First Cosmetic Treatise of History, a Female Point of View, 2008. http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/j.1468-2494.2007.00414.x/full (view full article)


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Venetia. Reprinted Vicenza, Italy: Neri Pozza Editoro, 1973. https://books.google.com/books?id=UytmAAAAcAAJ&dq=notandissimi&source=gbs_navlinks_s.

Shakaa, Rawan. (2007) Natural…Traditional… Chunky! This week in Palestine, Issue No. 107.

http://archive.thisweekinpalestine.com/details.php?id=2078&ed=138&edid=138 Ruscelli, Girolamo (1555) The secretes of the reuerende Maister Alexis of Piemount. Translated out of Frenche into

Englishe, by Wyllyam Warde. London: by Iohn Kingstone for Nicolas Inglande, dwelinge in Poules churchyarde, 1558. First edition is De’ Secreti del Reuerendo Donno Alessio Piemontese, Venetia: 1555. https://books.google.com/books?id=O-VbAAAAcAAJ&dq=de+secreti+del+reuerendo+donno+alessio+piemontese&source=gbs_navlinks_s http://eebo.chadwyck.com/home

Ruscelli, Girolamo (1560) The seconde part of the Secretes of Master Alexis of Piemont. Transl. William Warde. London: by Ihon Kyngston: for Nicholas Englande. http://eebo.chadwyck.com/home Ruscelli, Girolamo (1562) The thyrde and last parte of the Secretes of the reuerende Maister Alexis of Piemont.

Englished by Wyllyam Warde. London: by Roulande Hall, for Nycholas Englande. http://eebo.chadwyck.com/home

Ruscelli, Girolamo (1569) A verye excellent and profitable booke. Translated out of Italian into Englishe by Richard Androse. London: by Henry Denham. http://eebo.chadwyck.com/home


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Salhiyyeh, Muhammad Àli (1998) Thirteenth Century Treatise by King Al- Muzaffar Yusuf ibn Ùmar ibn Àli ibn

Rasul Al-mukhtara` fi funun min al- suna` (Inventions from the Various Industrial Arts), translated and published by Muhammad Àli Salhiyyeh, Kuwait, p. 198-200.

Smith C S & Hawthorne J G (1974) Mappae Clavicula A little Key to the World of Medieval Techniques.

Transactions of the American Philosophical Society for Promoting Useful Knowledge, New Series Vol. 64, Part 4. For original Latin manuscript: http://www.cmog.org/library/manuscript-mappae-clavicula Recipe 1 from capital “C” on p. 129 to p. 130, recipe 2 is on p. 115 and starts at line 21.

T. C. (1579) An hospitall for the diseased / gathered by T.C. London: for Edward White, at the little Northdore of Paules Churche, at the signe of the Sun, and are there to bee solde.

http://eebo.chadwyck.com/home Internet dictionaries: The Florio 1611 Dictionary Search: http://www.pbm.com/~lindahl/florio/search/search.cgi Historische Woordenboeken op Internet (Historic Dictionaries on Internet). http://gtb.inl.nl/?owner=MNW

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A most Copious and Exact Compendium of Sope - Medieval Soap Recipes.

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